PA.

Will do first thing tomorrow. Of course now it starts up and runs fine.

I do always test the test light first to be sure also.

Is there anyway that the fuel pump relay or pump/regulator could be not working when it's cold outside?? It's the only common denominator that I can find.

I went out and got the good back probe needles that are designed for a meter to just to be sure that I have really good contact in the wire.

 

It doesn't make sense that you have a fuel problem when you had no spark (verified by the timing light) when it wasn't starting.

The ignition switch is working, because you have 12V to the coil. The back-probing of the coil was just testing the ICM, and that failed. You replaced the ICM, and still have the same problem.

At this point it is best to test for spark and the ICM. Repeat the ICM test using the test light and also the timing light test when it doesn't start.

 

PA<

Will do tomorrow morning.

Thank you

 

Also, try the test light test when the car is starting to make sure that I gave you the proper instructions.

 

Okie dokie, I think I did one time but I'll do it again to be sure.

Thank you

 

http://techauto.awardspace.com/ignition.html

i gave you this link before...........if car does not start in the morning and it is a lack of spark . do the diagnose on this link

try something just for the heck of it,,,,,,,,when car does not start, remove the intake hose to the throttle body , open the butterfly manually and spray some carb cleaner in the throttle body..this will at least eliminate lack of fuel issue if car still does not start..
I cannot recall if your car has an outside the distr coil ,, if it does ,,try this test

1. Turn the ignition switch OFF.

2. Disconnect the 4-P connector and ignition coil wire.
3. Using an ohmmeter, measure resistance between the terminals. Replace the coil if the resistance is not within specifications.


NOTE: Resistance will vary with the coil temperature; specifications are at 68°F

Primary Winding Resistance
Between A and B terminals (black/yell and green) 0.64 - 0.78 Ohms

Secondary Winding Resistance
Between A ( black/yell ) and secondary winding terminals 14.4 - 21.6 K Ohms

try and let us know..

 

DesertHonda,

Thank you so much for your help, I will get it all done tomorrow and report back. I was actually able to get the car to my work so now I have a helping hand to crank the car over at all times...i'm just gonna go into work a little early tomorrow and meet a buddy.

Thank you again and I'm reading the link now,

Donnie

 

Which connector is 4-P?

I just tried cranking the car over...the timing light would barely flash intermittently when cranking...

The weird thing is that I put a coil a tester on it and it tested good..??

I'm going to look at getting a good set of honda OEM spark plug wires...the coil wire doesn't seem to have a good connection to the cap.

It had that corrosion that I spoke of in the beginning of the thread and it doesn't just "grab" on to the terminal like it should...j

I'll get the other steps done but I had to run back to my desk to take a phone call so figured I'd post.

 

Anyone on that connector 4_P?

Thanks so much,

Donnie

 

That 4-pin connector is the one that plugs into the coil.

Desert wants you to test the resistance on the coil.

Between where the blk/yel and the grn wire plug into the coil should be 0.6-0.8 ohms.

Between the blk/yel and secondary winding terminal (the terminal that plugs into the spark plug wire) should be 14-22 Kohms.

Also, what happened when you used the test light with the new ICM?