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1996 Accord 4 cyl, crank but won't fire...any ideas?

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Old May 12, 2010 | 03:04 PM
  #81  
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My distributor is set up differently than yours, so I am not sure which wires you are talking about. Is there anything in this picture that will make things clearer?
 

Last edited by PAhonda; May 13, 2010 at 05:28 PM.
Old May 12, 2010 | 03:12 PM
  #82  
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Yes that picture helps me so much.. here I edited it...the arrows are the screws I was talking about..

Do I have to remove those or just those two lower ones that are silver in the upper right corner of the picture?

1996 Accord 4 cyl, crank but won't fire...any ideas?-distributor11.jpg
 
Old May 12, 2010 | 04:14 PM
  #83  
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Some of the wires you're talking about might be for the timing sensors down inside the distributor. Those don't have to come out, but I guess if they're obstructing your way to removing the ignitor you gotta do something???
 
Old May 12, 2010 | 06:02 PM
  #84  
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it is easier to replace the igniter if distributor is out of the car,,
So if distr is on the car,, mark the position of the distr . unplug the connectors, remove the 3, 12 mm bolts, remove the distr,, i would advise to install a new o-ring..
once out......get a small screwdriver and pry all the wires off, I would write down the position so you put them back correctly, or just look at the pic above,, ,, remove the 2 screws , move wires out of the way , remove the igniter ..
i would install a Honda factory igniter, it is a bit more expensive they last a lot longer than non-factory
 
Old May 12, 2010 | 06:22 PM
  #85  
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I got the ICM out...the part that I was having a tough time with was that the icm itself screws onto a bracket and then the bracket screws onto the distributor itself...I saw the screws that held the icm to the bracket and went wtf..(the ones that hold it on are on the bottom and hard to see).

Well I got it out and the one that they gave me @ Napa is the wrong part...I was going to post some pictures of why not but it was because the mounting flange where the screw goes was too thick. The screws that hold the icm to it's little bracket are very short and wouldn't go all the way though the icm into the bracket(not even close).

So, I returned that one and called autozone..they actually did have it, so I went and picked it up. I'll have it in by tonight when I get off work @ 6:30 ish pm.

Thanks again for all the help, hopefully this is it.

Donnie
 
Old May 12, 2010 | 06:25 PM
  #86  
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like i said,,,,,, buy a factory Honda igniter ,, it might cost a bit more but it will last a lot longer.. a lot more dependable
 
Old May 12, 2010 | 06:45 PM
  #87  
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Originally Posted by deserthonda
like i said,,,,,, buy a factory Honda igniter ,, it might cost a bit more but it will last a lot longer.. a lot more dependable
I know you told me. I had to try the cheaper one though. It has a lifetime warranty, it's in stock and it was 50 bucks. The tec one @ autozone was 95 and the hitachi was 180...

If it lasts 20 thousand miles, I don't mind changing it out with a lifetime warranty.

Thank you again so much, I will let you guys know tonight if I finally get this thing going.

Donnie
 
Old May 12, 2010 | 09:34 PM
  #88  
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Thumbs up Finally

Well...she runs~!!!!!

Thank you all so so so much for helping me through this issue. It was the ignition control module I guess. The car needed a tune up anyway and now I've got better plugs in it. (plus I learned A LOT)

I guess the true test will be tomorrow morning when it's cold. lol. I'll bet it starts though, it hasn't started in 3-4 days once and it fired up 5-6 times in a row the second I popped the dist cap back on and hooked the battery back up.

So again, thank you all so much.

Donnie
 
Old May 13, 2010 | 09:19 AM
  #89  
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OF COURSE!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

It's 7:05 am here, phucking car won't start!!!!!

I don't know what the heck else to do, it fired up 10 times last night. Now it's a little chilly outside and it's 8 hours later, it won't start.
 
Old May 13, 2010 | 04:44 PM
  #90  
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Repeat the test light test on the coil and let us know what you find. Also repeat the timing light test.

Make sure that the test light is actually working by hooking one end up to the blk/yel needle and touching the other end to a bolt that is grounded (like a valve cover bolt).
 



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