You should still be able to put the connector back on with the needles in there.

The reason that you want to remove the connector, is to check that the needle is actually making contact with the pin by doing that resistance test I mentioned.

EDIT: You can push the needles in with the connector plugged in, then test for voltage on each one by touching one lead of the volt meter to the needle, and the other one to a bolt on the valve cover. Make sure the key is in the II position.

 

Thank you so much for the quick reply. I get it now, what I didn't understand was that I'm supposed to push the needle in through the "back" of the connector...

Thank you again and hopefully I can get this thing going tonight, I'll report back of course.

Donnie

 

Sorry still no news...

I was able to get the rotor put in last night and get the needles jammed into the connector with good contact...but now the car starts of course..

This morning was a rough morning and I didn't get a chance to mess around with it again...I have tomorrow off all day so I should have a few hours to just get outside and wrench on it.

have a good weekend,

Donnie

 

Okay, I went out this morning and it wouldn't start up...i put the test light from needle to needle and made sure there was 12 v going to coil connector first...blk/yellow wire 12 volts...grn nothing.

when cranking the light did nothing when jumped from needle to needle...??

Does this mean bad coil or icm?

Thank you so much, I think I'm close now.

Donnie

Also, I found out that autozone rents out fuel pressure gauges and that I can just swap out my wires if there is any wear because they're life time warranty(go figure)...

 

Ok, you are close.

Push the needle into the grn wire more at the connector. It should have 12V when the connector is plugged into the coil before you try to start the car.

You volt meter should have an open/closed setting that you can use to test continuity. The continuity between the grn needle and grn pin should read closed by doing the test with the connector unplugged at the coil.

 

PA,

Thank you for guiding me through this. I'm not good with the meter...I have a Dual multi meter(craftsman brand)...do I set it on 20V DC to test for continuity? and then I'm looking for zero?

Oddly enough, now of course it fires right up cause it's nice and warm in the afternoon so I'm gonna have to wait til tomorrow morning to have at it again. I'm off tomorrow though so I'll be able to get to it for sure.

Take care and have good Mother's day everyone,

Donnie

 

That 20V DC checks for voltage from 2V-20V.

The setting that you want is the furthest right setting on the ohms section that has a black label (~5 o'clock in the pic). The meter will read open when the leads are not touching and closed when you touch them together.

 

Okay,

I got the needle jammed in there really good. green had power when the coil was plugged in and the key was in on position.

Then I hooked test light from green needle to blk/yellow needle and had my girl crank the car...no flash, no light, no nothing.

I went down and bought a new coil, it doesn't actually fit(the holes are too small for the bracket, I mean the distance between the holes not the diameter)..i went ahead and set it in the bracket and hooked it all up and tried to start it..

Nothing.

I also got the new wires put on at the same time seeing as they were under warranty, so it's not the wires.



I'm now thinking maybe go ahead and get a new ignition switch??

Is there anyway to be 100 percent sure that the ignition switch is still working properly?

At least now, the car never starts so I can work on it pretty much any time. lol It's a little cooler outside today but it hasn't started once now it two days.

Donnie

 

Okay, I may have gotten the wrong coil...

Is there anyway to tell whether I have a hitachi or tec distributor?

Autozone said this was the right one...didn't even say there was two different ones available. I go home and it won't bolt up to the bracket...

I tried it anyway and hooked it all up because they appeared identical and it wouldn't start.

So i put the old coil back on, put the new wires on and when ahead and got another ignition switch.

Just got done putting that in...no luck, still won't start.


Just so everyone knows,

I've put in plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil(maybe), ignition switch, fuel pump turns on and new valve cover gaskets and seals due to the plug wire being doused.

Should I try the fuel pump relay? How much about are they? I may just throw one in now too just to eliminate that.

Is there anyway to figure out which distributor I have? Is says ID 607 or something on the outside???

I'll get that fuel pressure gauge cause that should tell me if the fuel pump is working good..

I may have to do the ICM(ignitor) i guess?? Again, I have to figure out which distributor I have. Once of the ignitors is 180 bucks and the other is like 70 bucks! I really want to make sure that this is the issue before I go buy one. I may have already done the test to know but like I said that light did not flash when I had the needles touched to each other with each end of a test light and the engine cranking...

Also, when I hooked up the meter to check the "resistance" for open/closed. It just said 1 or .1 the whole time? ??

I made sure that the green wire was lighting the light with the key in the on position and the connector plugged in.

Thanks for any more advice,

Donnie

 

You have the tec distributor. The Hitachi distributor comes with the EX.

The light not flashing means that your ignition control module is not working.

Check that the wires are on the ICM securely. Also check the 4 wires going to the ICM for any signs of damage or shoddy repairs done on them.