1996 Accord EX won't start Please Help
#1
1996 Accord EX won't start Please Help
I have spent quite a while searching trying to find a solution and am having no luck. When the key is turned to the on start position all lights come on and you can hear the fuel pump running. Doesn't match up to what I have read for bad switch or bad main relay. We bought the car about a month ago it has 189,000 miles and has been doing fine. Just started this problem yesterday once and now it won't start at all. Checked and cleaned battery terminal and post ends. Will not turn over at all. Was starting just fine before. Please help it is currently our only vehicle. Thanks in advance for any and all help.
1996 Accord EX V-Tech Auto
1996 Accord EX V-Tech Auto
#3
Will car not turn over in N or P?
If yes, check for 12V to starter signal wire (blk/wht). If no starter signal, you may have a bad ignition switch. If you're getting a starter signal, the starter solenoid is probably gone (no sound at all?). Usual fix is new or rebuilt starter.
good luck
If yes, check for 12V to starter signal wire (blk/wht). If no starter signal, you may have a bad ignition switch. If you're getting a starter signal, the starter solenoid is probably gone (no sound at all?). Usual fix is new or rebuilt starter.
good luck
#4
I got your email and thought that it would be better to post on here.
Here are the terms I use to describe starting my car. When I turn the key to star the car, the starter cranks the engine. When the engine fires up, it is running on its own, and I release the key.
So is the starter cranking the engine, or is the engine not firing up? This is key in the next step of the diagnosis.
Here are the terms I use to describe starting my car. When I turn the key to star the car, the starter cranks the engine. When the engine fires up, it is running on its own, and I release the key.
So is the starter cranking the engine, or is the engine not firing up? This is key in the next step of the diagnosis.
#5
Engine is not turning over. When key is turned only lights in dash come on and you can hear the fuel pump running. Where is the best place to find the wires mentioned above to test for 12v?
Thanks for the help....
Thanks for the help....
#6
best bet would be you need a new starter. you dont seem to mention that you hear that click when trying to start. having your lights turn on atleast means the battery is good, so it has to do with your ignition
#8
Dude, does your car have an alarm system, factory or otherwise? Did this happen suddenly? Had you done anything prior to the car not starting or was it giving you symptoms of problems in starting? I hear that in these cars, you may want to check the wire to the starter solenoid for corrosion and check the battery terminals very well. Even though the clamps may be tight, wiggle them to see if they are actually tight on the posts.
#9
If you have factory security, I have your answer
I just went through replacing my ignition switch, park neutral sensor, and starter cut relay all to no avail. The solution was simple, just took me a long time to get there. 1st to be sure its not your starter, take a 3' piece of wire with alligatorr clips on the ends (Such as you buy at harbor frieght) the guage of the wire doesnt need to be thick. and at the starter pull back the rubber boot that covers the trigger wire that engages the soleniod to start your starter. attach the aligator clip to the connector. turn your key on in the car. take the other end of the wire and touch the positive side of your battery. if your starter is good your car will start.
Under the dash by the steering column you have a starter cut relay.
Under your passenger seat you have the security/door lock control module
The security control module provides a ground to the starter cut relay, when everthing is good, a ground is present and your car starts. If your car is being stolen or if the security system is not working correctly and thinks the car is being stolen, it breaks the ground and your starter will not turn over. the simple solution is to tie into the green wire on the harness that connects to your starter cut relay and attach it to the nut on the firewall by the steering column.
This provides a constant ground and your car will start.
Under the dash by the steering column you have a starter cut relay.
Under your passenger seat you have the security/door lock control module
The security control module provides a ground to the starter cut relay, when everthing is good, a ground is present and your car starts. If your car is being stolen or if the security system is not working correctly and thinks the car is being stolen, it breaks the ground and your starter will not turn over. the simple solution is to tie into the green wire on the harness that connects to your starter cut relay and attach it to the nut on the firewall by the steering column.
This provides a constant ground and your car will start.
#10
my 97 coupe had been running fine, until the battery died. I had a bulb in the trunk that would not go out and I fixed the latch and replaced the battery (under warranty)
Ran great for a couple weeks and the dash light indicated the trunk was not closed.
Put new battery on charger overnight after draining down.
I just pulled the bulb and when I went to start, no crank no start. The
headlights on no problem throughout key turn, interior fan runs, until you turn key.
Windows, or sun roof don't move at all with key in any position.
I am wondering if the security module and will try the clarkman99 post.
I will let you all know.
Ran great for a couple weeks and the dash light indicated the trunk was not closed.
Put new battery on charger overnight after draining down.
I just pulled the bulb and when I went to start, no crank no start. The
headlights on no problem throughout key turn, interior fan runs, until you turn key.
Windows, or sun roof don't move at all with key in any position.
I am wondering if the security module and will try the clarkman99 post.
I will let you all know.
Last edited by roblga; 05-04-2013 at 10:53 PM.
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