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1996 Honda Accord EX 5MT , intermittent fuel pump problem

  #1  
Old 03-26-2019, 06:29 PM
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Join Date: Mar 2019
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Default 1996 Honda Accord EX 5MT , intermittent fuel pump problem

Cars cranks but no start fuel pump does not turn on it has CEL, it will if the car sits for awhile then i hear it click on and it starts but the idle is steady but rough (car vibrates).

i have had the fuel pump replaced,Main fuel pump relay. i replaced the Map sensor, spark plugs, spark plug wires and the distributor Ignition coil. Didnít work.

Scan tool didn't work, so i replaced the ECU, scan tool works with the new ECU, and it still wonít start but it now gives me a P153 V-Tec system Malfunction. Can this effect your fuel pump in anyway? because but it still not turning on.

If anyone can help that would be great , this car has been a headache for the last few months.
 
  #2  
Old 03-26-2019, 08:52 PM
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Location: Houston, TX
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Turn the key to the II position, but don't try to start the car. Do you hear the fuel pump turn on for about 2 seconds while the check engine light does the bulb check? You may also want to shake the key to see if you can get the pump to prime.

Another test to try. There is an electrical connector under (or near) the access panel in the trunk near the back seat. Don't have my shop manual in front of me, but one of the wires is yellow (may be blk/yel or yel/blk). Check that this wire is getting 12V when you turn the key to the II position. A volt meter will work to determine if you get voltage. I'd recommend using a test light that can draw some current to check the integrity of the wire. There is also a ground near that access panel that you may want to unbolt and clean the bolt and eyelet with a wire brush or sandpaper.
 
  #3  
Old 03-27-2019, 12:56 PM
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Location: Kimball MI
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Originally Posted by PAhonda View Post
Turn the key to the II position, but don't try to start the car. Do you hear the fuel pump turn on for about 2 seconds while the check engine light does the bulb check? You may also want to shake the key to see if you can get the pump to prime.

Another test to try. There is an electrical connector under (or near) the access panel in the trunk near the back seat. Don't have my shop manual in front of me, but one of the wires is yellow (may be blk/yel or yel/blk). Check that this wire is getting 12V when you turn the key to the II position. A volt meter will work to determine if you get voltage. I'd recommend using a test light that can draw some current to check the integrity of the wire. There is also a ground near that access panel that you may want to unbolt and clean the bolt and eyelet with a wire brush or sandpaper.
What brand of pump did you replace the original with? Denso? Just asking as you might have gotten a bad pump.
 
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