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I ended up just swapping the distributor since I couldn't get the darn stripped screw out of the rotor on the old one. The new distributor seems to have solved the stalling issue, so it looks like it probably was the ICM in the distributor that was going bad. One thing I noticed after changing the distributor is now my idle seems a bit lower than it used to be (about 1000 at cold startup when it used to be 1200 and about 700 instead of 750 when warm. Also, when running A/C it really idles rough and seems to be bogging down. If my timing is a bit off with the distributor swap, could it cause these idle issues? I'm trying to borrow a timing light from a friend but was thinking of trying to turn the distributor a bit to the left or right to see if it made any improvements. Let me know anyone has any suggestions.
If its a 1996 like the thread title, then spinning the distributor won't change the timing. The timing is actually done with the CKP sensor down at the crankshaft pulley.
I ended up just swapping the distributor since I couldn't get the darn stripped screw out of the rotor on the old one. The new distributor seems to have solved the stalling issue, so it looks like it probably was the ICM in the distributor that was going bad. One thing I noticed after changing the distributor is now my idle seems a bit lower than it used to be (about 1000 at cold startup when it used to be 1200 and about 700 instead of 750 when warm. Also, when running A/C it really idles rough and seems to be bogging down. If my timing is a bit off with the distributor swap, could it cause these idle issues? I'm trying to borrow a timing light from a friend but was thinking of trying to turn the distributor a bit to the left or right to see if it made any improvements. Let me know anyone has any suggestions.
You might try adjusting the idle speed up then. Normal is 750 warmed up. Like most Honda tach's, that's the first line below 1000. Took me a while to get used to that too.
Yes, it's a 1996 Accord. Does the CKP sensor automatically adjust the timing? I couldn't locate any marks for the timing light, so that would make things easier if I don't need to manually adjust anything.
Last edited by zombiepigs; Jan 22, 2020 at 09:04 PM.
The 96 should have a timing mark on the crank pulley and a notched pointer as part of the timing cover.
Look at your old 96 distributor, are the 3 bolt holes slotted, where you could loosen the bolts and rotate the distributor? How about the replacement distributor?
This is 98-02 but yours should be pretty much the same. Four notches in the edge of the pulley and a pointer molded into the plastic lower timing cover. The one by itself is at #1-TDC (for checking the camshaft timing) and the group of 3 notches is the "base" timing that you use to check with a timing light. You would first jumper the SCS connector to prevent the ECM from doing any adjustments, then shine a timing light on the pulley.
The CKP sensor signals the ECM at #1-TDC and the ECM does the timing control in its software. OBD-2 required that it be made non-adjustable. So even if you open up the distributor's bolt holes to make slots, turning the distributor won't change the timing.
Ok, I saw the pointer on the timing cover but didn't see the other marks on the pulley wheel. I will check it with a timing light this weekend and see if I can see the mark locations. If the marks are out of range, does that mean the CKP sensor or ECU might be bad or is there some other way to manually adjust it? The original distributor had the oval slotted holes and the new one has two oval slotted holes and one round hole. Also noticed the new distributor has a screw that looks kind like where you would connect a ground. It wasn't on the old one so I assume it doesn't need to be hooked up. Do you know what that screw is for?
Last edited by zombiepigs; Jan 23, 2020 at 09:43 PM.
I didn't have a ground on my 95 accord at your arrow. It may be for a metal bracket that holds wiring. I typically look on ebay for used OEM parts pictures to see the OEM setup.
Your distributor picture has slotted holes, so you may be able to set the distributor where zero advance/retard is spot on. You would need a timing light. And I'm pretty sure you need to short the service connector under the glove box, to stop the PCM from adjusting timing. I'm not sure if this will make a difference, because I don't know the limits on advance/retard with the PCM.
BTW, the 96 AT has a base idle spec for 700 +/- 50, so you may be good.
Below are videos on the installation and the timing adjustment.
If the timing doesn't look correct, the first thing is to verify the pulley isn't slipping.
There's a layer of hard rubber between the outer pulley & the central "hub" of the pulley. With age & oil, sometimes that comes loose and the outer pulley can slip. Obviously if that has happened, the notches in the rim of that pulley are in the wrong place and you don't want to screw up everything just trying to use those marks.
