Ok, so this issue is very random. Every month or so, when I go to start up my car, it cranks but will not start. I'll try a few times and it just cranks. I'll leave for 5 minutes, come back, and it starts right up and gives me no trouble for another month or so.

Recently, it's started happening more and more, so I took it to Advance today to have it scanned for codes. My check engine light has been on since I bought the car, but that's related to the O2 sensor. A new sensor wouldn't clear the code so I've been driving with a check engine light since I've owned the car.

Anyways, I got 3 codes this time.

P0135 - Oxygen Sensor Heater Bank 1 Sensor 1
P0155 - Oxygen Sensor Heater Circuit Bank 2 Sensor 1
P0705 - Transmission Range Sensor Circuit Malfunction (2-Posi)

Like I said, one of the O2 sensor codes has been keeping my check engine light on since I've owned the car (not sure which one), but I don't think that would have anything to do with the starting issue. The TRS sensor, however, seems like it's a definite possibility.

I did a search on this and found that this sensor (assuming it's the same thing as the "switch", as that's what many of the search results brought back) is responsible for making sure the car won't start if it's not sensing that the vehicle is in park or neutral. So now it's looking like that may be my issue.

My question is this. If this were indeed the issue, would it even crank? It seems to me that if it were, then it wouldn't do anything at all. If I were in gear and I tried to start the ignition, under normal conditions, wouldn't it do nothing?

It may be a few days or it may be another month, but my plan is next time it does this, I'm going to try starting it in neutral instead of park. This may give me a better indication, but it may be a while.

Any thoughts would be greatly appreciated. Thanks!

 

Is this a 4 or 6 cylinder?

 

The p0705 code may very likely be related to the switch in the center console that senses if the car is in park. Often times when they fail people can not get the get out of the ignition, but sometimes they fail enough where the key will still come out, but the car will not start because the computer is not sensing that it is in park. The code and no start reason has something to do with that switch. You can check for a short in the wiring or just cut to the chase and either try cleaning the switch or simply replacing it. I am not one for throwing parts at a car without diagnostics, but given you description of what is occurring it is worth replacing. It is a wear and tear item just like the electrical portion of the ignition switch and will eventually fail. It is not uncommon for them to be replaced once in the life of the vehicle for your generation.

Suggest replacing or cleaning or cleaning and adjusting the switch. Good luck and welcome to HAF.

 

Should be a v6 since there are two bank codes posted. Hope they respond.

Edit... Take that back the description says 2.3l. As my wife would say, what the what...

 

When I am logged in, I cannot see the OP's signature. He has a 4 cylinder.

P0155 - There is no P0155 applicable to the 4 cylinders, as there is no bank 2.

P0135 is Primary O2 sensor heater circuit malfunction.

P0705 is short in Transmission Range Switch Circuit. The transmission range switch is not in the interior center console. That is in the engine compartment.

 

It's a 4 cylinder. Funny how I have both codes then.

Thanks for the replies. I do have a multimeter so I'll run the test. Looks like the connector is accessible from under the hood in the picture, yes? I don't have any jack stands, though, so I'll need to find someone to borrow from when/if I need to get underneath.

Thanks again. I'll post an update with the results.

Another quick question. Will it read normal if the issue isn't occuring, or will I need to run the test when the issue is actually occuring? Like I mentioned, the issue is random and only occurs every so often. Seems I'll have continuity when it's starting up as normal.

 

Sometimes universal OBD-II reader/scanner will even show codes not applicable to Hondas. -- We seen that a bunch of times on this forum.

On many cars, depending on the type of failure/problem detected, the computer will store a pending trouble code the first time it is detected and no check engine light will be on. If the same failure is detected on 2 consecutive drive cycles, then check engine light comes on (not all failure/problem may require the 2 consecutive drive cycles to trigger the check engine light). The check engine light may turn off after several other drive cycles if the same failure is no longer detected.

Honda terms an "intermittent failure" to mean a system may have had a failure, but checks OK now. If the check engine light was on but then went out, the original problem may have been intermittent.

 

Ok, I found the connector but having trouble getting it disconnected haha. I'm off tomorrow so will give it a shot then when I have some daylight.