Have you checked to rule out any vacuum leaks?

Any reason to suspect the mechanical stop-screw for the throttle plate has been adjusted? That is supposed to only just prevent the throttle plate from wedging stuck closed.

Have you checked/adjusted the base idle? That's where you unplug the IACV and adjust the idle-air screw for 550rpm? That's not the mechanical stop for the throttle, it's a little needle-valve above the bore of the throttle body.

Then do another reset/relearn if you adjust any of the things I mentioned.

 

Ok so today I was off of work so I spent a lot of time with the car. Everything you stated was double checked. Thanks for the advice though.
What I figured out today is it is not a throttle problem or a coolant problem. I replaced my rad because I found a small leak (was not my idle problem but thought it could be) when I burped the air out the system I had the car reved at 2500rpm for a good bit.
The car ran fine after that for 10min or so. I drove it with no problems then it came back. When it comes back I can rev it to make it go away (a lot easier then before)
I hooked my scan tool up and the car is switching from open to close loop every time it surges (rpm high=open loop and rpm low=closed loop) and fuel trim is all over the place not normal at all. What could be causing this???

 

The engine goes into closed loop when the coolant warms to around 195F. Monitor the coolant temperature sensor readings. If the temperature is not drastically jumping all over the place, then I'd go with a bad thermostat stuck open. If it is jumping around, then it could be several items. The sensor/wiring (I'd think that would set a code), air in the coolant system (you checked several times), combustion gases (possible head gasket issue).

If you replace the thermostat, go with an OEM version from Honda.