I had to replace my clutch master cylinder because clutch pedal went to floor and would not return. I got the old master cylinder out and the new one in but the issue I am having is that I cannot get the line to fully seat in the new master cylinder to be able to push the retention clip through. I have tried the new rubber o-ring and the new one, the result is the same.
I searched this forum and couldn't find anything on this issue. I have googled the issue and found some one asking about the same thing and the advice that they were given is to remove the line and secure it to the master cylinder. Then install the master cylinder to the fire wall.
I don't really want to go that route, would have to drain cooling system and disconnect heater core lines. And I'm not sure that it would be that easy to get the line back in between the intake and the firewall with the master connected, and get the master back into the area between strut tower and the brake booster. Looking for any help or tips, please. Thank you

 

Unbolt the master cylinder from the firewall, attach the line, then reattach the master cylinder.

 

As PAhonda states seat the line with the master loosened from the firewall and then bolt to the fire wall. Once the master is seated to the fire wall you can then retighten the supply line. Note you should bench bleed the master before installing, and then pump and hold the clutch (use a block of wood against the drivers seat or pry bar or what ever works) and then loosen then line to the master to bleed out more air, retighten and then bleed the system from the slave.

 

I already tried to connect the line to the master cylinder and then bolt the assembly to the fire wall yesterday. The master can not be reinstalled without kinking the line. It has to go in between the strut tower and the booster at an angle the turned upright and secured to fire wall. The line goes over brake booster and along firewall below the intake manifold. I could not get the master to angle between the booster and strut tower without starting to severely bending the line. This line has an o ring and is pressed into the master and held in place with retention clip. It is not a flared connection with threads to tighten. The clip is the problem. I got a good look at it with the assembly out. It binds and will not go straight through the hole. Add that to the fact that you can not get your hand into the area where the master cylinder is and it becomes nearly inpossible. I started to polish the clip smooth with fine grit sandpaper to make assembly easier. Still working on it.

 

Can you get a picture of the end of the line that goes into the master? There are some clips along that line that you might be able to remove to give the line a little more flex.

Just me but based upon the picture, it looks like there is an adapter fitting at the end of the line

 

Were able to get the clip in? I'm having the same issue and I'm lost on how this going to work.

 

Yes I got the clip back in. The replacement master had a metal body and the original was a plastic body. The line did not seat deep enough into the replacement master to be able to insert the clip. (The recessed part of the line did not line up with the clip's hole in the master cylinder body) I had got the master through a friend who worked at a parts store and used his discount for me. We switched that master for another and the problem was the same. It was a Centric brand master cylinder so I do not know if the same problem exists with other brands.

What I ended up doing was to take the clip and put it in a vise and file the pin down. I only filed the side that contacted the line. I secured the master to the firewall in seated the line. Then I filed the clip with a coarse file and kept test fitting and filing till it went in. It was still tight and took a little effort to get it in, but I didnt want it too loose so the line didn't leak. I got it in maby a day or two after my posts. So I've been driving it for 4 months now daily and havn't had any signs of leaks or problems.

It took a little time and the location of the master cylinder makes reassembly difficult and a pain. Thats the only way I could find to accomplish it. You wont be able to get the master back behind the strut tower with the line connected, I tried. Good luck,take your time.