Here is a list what has been changed/repaired:
1. Distributor
2. Fuel Pump
3. Main Fuel Pump Relay
4. ECM/PCM (Salvaged)
5. Throttle Position Sensor
6. Map Sensor
7. EGR valve
8. Intake Air Temperature Sensor (IATS)
9. Cleaned EGR passageways (Twice)
It seems like something maybe heating up and breaking down/ failing. I don't know; it makes no sense.

 

Any thoughts, suggestions, recommendations, etc. PLEASE. Thanks

 

About the only thing I can think of might be a coil (since this car was built before Honda went coil packs on the V6). In your case, as it gets warmer (approximately 1.5 hours of run time), then it starts breaking up. It cools off for an hour (usual DR visit time in office and waiting room), then warms up for another 1.25 hours and repeats itself. It's either that, or the wiring to it is near a heat source that's causing it to warm up, and "break up". I've only personally seen that happen in a VW, where the engine heat effected it (caused the fuel pump to vapor lock) in hot weather, and an old GM do that with a HEI coil (it would start breaking up due to engine heat (V8 powered Chevy Monza). Note, I've had a coil go bad in a VW before, but it did it right off the get go, rather than while driving, as I could reproduce it acting up in the driveway. It took me 3 days of pure testing and parts swapping to find it.

 

I've been thinking about that for sometime now. It's what it acts like; something heating up and breaking down and causing the problem. Would an Ecm/Pcm do that or is it either good or bad? It's located right on the hump of the floorboard and the heat from the vents get on it some. Beats me; makes a man wanting to start drinking. Would the Idle Control Valve (ICV) have anything to do with it?

 

I seriously doubt the ECM would cause this, but anything is possible. Same applies with the IAC valve. I'd think the main relay would do this sort of thing before the ECM. If it were the ECM, you could try and get it to do it in the driveway, by running the engine, with the heat on, blasting the inside of the car. It would then stall out, or act up doing that. But, at the same time, maybe it would cause the same issue with something under the hood as well. Only way to find out for sure, is to try it.

 

I put a new main fuel pump relay on it. My question is like the other day on my trip to the doctor I had my scanner hooked up on it and when it started acting up I ran a scan on it and it showed no codes. A person would think that it would show a code with the engine running so rough at the time.

 

Intermittent problems are frustrating and very hard to diagnose.

Can your scanner read live data? You may be able to monitor sensors when the car is acting up to possibly help narrow down the problem.

 

Yeah it has live data capabilities but I can't understand what it's showing me. Lol. Would a catalytic converter cause these symptoms?

 

I'd expect a clogged catalytic converter would cause you issues all of the time.

Take some time on your scanner to understand normal values for the sensors you can see on your scanner. We can try to help with the explanation.

You may want to look at fuel trims, as that tells you if the engine computer is trying to compensate for a lean or rich condition.

 

My thoughts as well. Maybe even try driving around with the scanner in place, so you can get some baseline readings, so you'll know what you're looking for when it acts up again.If I remember right, at one point you said your wife drove it for about 35 miles and it acted up on her. Maybe try running that route with it, and see if it does it again, but this time with the scanner hooked up, so you can see what it's doing.