I know whenever I put the key into the ignition in my 99, the green key in the dash lights up. Whether I start the car or not.

 

Thanks for the reply; mine does also with my original Ecm but when I installed the new one the green key wouldn't come on. I sent it back and the guy sent me another new one and it's doing the same thing; no green key light. I confronted him on the situation and he told me that this is normal because it's a new Ecm and there is no vin# programmed in the yet so the green key light won't come on until the dealer programs the cars vin# in it. Just wondering if this is correct or if he's just trying to sell faulty Ecm's? Someone who knows please reply. Thanks

 

At minimum, the new PCM needs programmed to accept the signal sent from the key. There is a procedure where you can temporarily bypass the key security to drive the vehicle to the dealership for programming. The seller may have that information or the dealership should provide the information based on the serial number on the new PCM.

I'm not sure if the new PCM will require your vehicle's VIN programmed, but everything necessary should be done by the dealership to program the replacement PCM.

 

PAhonda; thanks for your reply. I guess I'll take it to another dealer and see if they can get it programmed. The guy at the other dealership seemed like he was fairly new and inexperienced because he had to go twice and ask what to do. Maybe I'll have better luck at another dealer.

 

Ideally, the seller would have enclosed a chipped key that matched the ECM he sold. Then you could just tape the keys together (the plastic parts) so you could drive to the dealership. At least that's how it's explained in the FSM.

 

Yeah that would have been nice but I can drive my car to the dealer now and then I swap the Ecm's out so they can program but the guy at the dealer I don't think he knew what he was doing because he said since he couldn't get a green key light to come on the dash that the Ecm wasn't putting out any power and he couldn't program it.

 

Sounds like you need a different dealer, or someone else there that knows what they're doing.

 

Yeah I know; I'm going to take it to another dealer next time. Nobody here in my town can do it that I can find.

 

Update: Looking for info from Honda Techs/ good experienced knowledgeable mechanics. I'm in a crisis mode on this car. You know the ole saying you can set your watch by it well on this car of mine I can set the odometer by it. Yesterday I made my monthly visit to my doctors office in Nashville, Tn. and when my odometer gets in the range of 80-90 miles it starts it's acting up. I would bet anything I own that I could take someone for a test drive in my car and for the first 79 miles it runs fine but hold on. When you get in the 80-90 mile marker; hold on here's where it starts acting up. You'll be running 70-75 mph and it's like someone reaches over and turns the ignition off; it doesn't die it just loses power. You can push the accelerator towards the floor and it will kick in and start running and as long as your accelerating it runs fine but if you let off the gas pedal just slightly it will start it's loss of power issue again. When it starts this the engine runs rough like it's running on 3 out of 6 cylinders. When it's running bad like this sometimes I can pull off to the side of the road and shut it off and restart it and it sometimes will run ok for a little bit before it starts again .Also when it starts running rough you can keep it running by pushing down on the gas pedal and when you drive it like that for 5-10 miles it will straighten up and run good for awhile till the next incidence. PLEASE someone tell me what can be done to resolve this problem. Thanks in advance to anyone of replies.

 

What exactly have you replaced on this car? I'm betting quite a bit, as this has been going on for some time now. But can you list it for us? I really don't want to have to go back thru 120 posts.