Cleaning the passages doesn't cost you anything in parts. You just have to remove the intake and clean the passages.

 

What PA is getting at is that it's common with Hondas for the EGR passageways to get plugged with crud. Not so common for the EGR valve itself to fail.
edit - oops he beat me to it...

What I was getting at with the CEL bulb-check is just what PA said. With a burned-out bulb, you can still get the error codes with a scanner.

 

The only thing you can do is wait for it to throw a code. I know if sucks but you'll be looking for days trying to find the issue and still may not find it. If you notice it happens under a certain condition you can try to force a code to be thrown by keeping it in the condition that causes the issue to arise.

 

Would an EGR passageway clogged or dirty make the car act up while you're driving at 70 mph and I can pull off to the side of the road and turn the car off and it's running seems like on 3 or 4 cylinders when I turn it off and then I can crank it right back up and it sounds and runs perfect with no misses. Even when it acts up like this I check it with my scanner and it shows no codes.

 

Does your scanner read live data? Your best bet is to look at the live data while the car is acting up to see if the engine is running rich or lean. Look at the fuel trims with the engine running poorly at idle, and see how they move when you increase the engine rpm. Or see if the EGR is being commanded on.

My suggestion on the EGR is based on your low flow code, because clogged EGR systems don't magically fix themselves. I'm not sure if this will fix your problem.

 

No my scanner don't have live data. My car has 268,000 miles on it; I'd probably say the EGR passageway would have some carbon and sludge build-up in it. But my question is would that make my car act up with the symptoms I described?

 

The short answer is that I don't know if a clogged EGR system would cause this issue. At 268k miles, you probably have a lot of buildup in there.

I can go off my old 95 accord that had 3/4 passages clogged at 200K miles. The car would have a slight stumble when the EGR kicked in, but it wasn't drastic. The engine accelerated smoother when I clean the EGR ports.

I always try addressing known issues to help find the actual culprit, so that is why I suggested the EGR passages cleaning first.

Just another thought, does your scanner let you know if your systems readiness monitors are current? If a system, say the EGR hasn't met the readiness criteria, then some codes may not be set.

 

PAhonda thanks for your input. I'm going to do as you suggested and clean the egr passageway next. I'll get back to you and others here on the forum after I get done with it and drive it to see if it helped any. Again thanks. Also while I'm thinking about it. Would a MAP sensor or throttle position sensor cause these kind of symptoms?

 

There are a lot of items that can cause the engine to run poorly. You should just pay close attention to what conditions cause your car to act up. Like speed, rpm, outside temperature, rain, etc.

I'd recommend you not to throw parts at the problem, because this could be an expensive fix.

You should get engine codes if the map or tps is not working properly.

You should look into getting an inexpensive Bluetooth scanner with software like torque pro to see what the engine computer is seeing. Then you avoid throwing parts (and possibly bad out of the box aftermarket parts) at the problem and complicating diagnosing.

 

Thanks PAhonda; I'm going to do the egr passageway next. Will follow-up after.