Ok. I thought you said you only changed the pump. I wasn't addressing a no start issue. Something is restricting the fuel at idle and have another option. Since you said you changed the filter now on to another maybe.

 

If you changed out the battery with a new one and it's still doing the same it's nothing with the battery. Do you know what pressures you're getting in the rail.

 

The only other thing I can think of is the IACV everything else looks to be changed. If you made sure your plugs and injectors were good but a code should be thrown if it weren't. Check your transmission fluid level

 

I haven't driven it since I changed the battery. Just wondering if a bad battery could cause my symptoms?

 

If your battery had a quick loss in voltage, then it could cause the engine to lose power. The symptoms your accord is having doesn't point to one item in particular.component, so that is why we are suggesting to wait for a code, or try to catch some live engine data when the car starts acting up.

 

I'm gonna throw this out because it's a bizarre situation I remember from a long-ago thread. No codes with your scanner, but also the CEL doesn't light up for it's 2-second bulb-check.

Pull the plugs from the PCM & look at all the pins/sockets. This one guy had been going nuts trying to figure it out. In the end it turned out to be a pin wasn't seated properly in the socket within one of those big wiring-harness plugs on the PCM. The wire & socket were partly retracted out from the big plastic plug & not making contact with the corresponding pin on the PCM. Seems like this isn't a very likely scenario, but you've been ruling out all kinds of other things.

Low voltage from a flaky battery can cause all sorts of flaky things, but the same flakyness can be caused by a loose connection at (for example) the other end of one of the battery cables. A weak battery will remain weak when you test it. But a loose/corroded connection will just be flaky. Sometimes flaky & sometimes OK.

 

Guys; thanks for your replies and it will give me some other things to check out. I'm determined to find this problem because it's no fun not knowing when your car is going to act up. Here lately it wants to act up when I get approximately 100 miles down the road. Right when I'm getting into heavy traffic in Nashville.

 

I put a new battery and new Throttle Position Sensor on it and now I'm getting a code P1491. I've erased it twice and everytime I drive it around town here when I come home and check it and the P1491 is on the scanner. Any thoughts and would this code be the cause of the symptoms I've been having? Thanks in advance to any replies. Merry Christmas everyone.

 

That's for your egr valve.

Take the egr off keep the plug in it. Back prob the pink wire to the battery power if it opens up then it's good. Next you have to take the intake off and clear the passage on the intake and engine. There is a tsb on that issue which is very common. I'm sure there a lots of videos on how to do it.

 

I took the plenum off and cleaned the passageways out. Unless I didn't get all the blockage out. But I thought I had it pretty clean. How's a person to know if he got it clear or not?