Ya, I've checked all the fuses on the car, none of which seem to be blown about 2 weeks ago, but specifically I'll take a closer look at FUSE 3 today now that I assume that's the source of the problem. I don't have anything to check voltage or continuity, but I can grab a volt meter from home depot on Friday.

In the meanwhile, could I check to see if the line connecting to FUSE 3 is okay by replacing it with another 7.5 amp fuse such as FUSE 10 which only controls Turn signal/hazard relay? If the FUSE 3 is only HOT when engine is ON, would it still be advised to dismount the battery?

 

As a test in the driveway, yes. You can swap it with another "known good" fuse. However, if there is a short in the system....you've now lost two systems.

A pack of fuses is only like $2~$3.

 

So I bought a case of fuses, and put a new 7.5 amp fuse replacing it with FUSE 3, and it still didn't work. So to check of there was a short in the system, I put the new FUSE 3 replacing with FUSE 10 and walla the fuse works.

So now, I know it's not the fuse, or a short in the system. I'll get a volt meter and check for continuity today.

 

So I did a few tests while I had the opportunity of good weather yesterday. Chitown is back to being in the low 30's and it sucks not having any heat!

I checked the continuity on FUSE 3 and walla, the meter displayed red. So I took the fuse OUT, and checked directly on the metal and found that continuity was only appearing on one side. (normal?) I checked the continuity on other fuses and some display only on one side as well.

With no luck, I tried one of " " method of finding an electrical short on YouTube. I disconnected the negative terminal on the battery, and stuck the alligator clip of the continuity meter onto the detached negative terminal, and stuck the continuity meter directly to the negative.

The meter has a 6V, 12V, 20V etc to let you know how much current is going through. The meter read "6 Volt : DC (-)", so I figured there was still current going through. From that, I pulled ALL the fuses, one-by-one to see if the light goes off and still had no luck. Any suggestions?

 

I found the ground distribution. I have a theory but I'm not sure how to test it. The GROUND G401 (Attached), has the same ground distribution as the headlights. About two months ago, I noticed the climate control, fans and everything worked when I turned on the headlights.

How do I go about checking if the ground between the highlights and the climate control, because everything before the "Combination Light Switch" isn't working. Well, I haven't the "DLC" but if that doesn't work either, that will confirm in definitely.

 

Pull the unit and test the inputs. Adding a ground can't hurt anything.

What I'm saying os if you jump a ground to the pin into the unit and the same thing is happening......you know that is not the issue.

The units on these have an issue....some have used a jumper wire inside the unit to get it to work, others replace the unit. There was a member on here just a few days ago that ended up adding the jumper wire to theirs and has been fine since.

EDIT: read this thread: https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...heat-ac-51228/
At one point I was getting the two of you confused.

 

I'm a little curious as I haven't done any wiring in the past apart from making a fight stick from an Xbox controller, but with the ground wire (which I'll try making my own jumper wire), am I leaving the car on while try imputing the copper wire to the back of the unit to see if I get a connection while the other end is on a metal frame?

 

Test......you want to be sure that power is coming to the unit and that the unit has a good ground. You'll need a manual for the pins, I think I have a pic of the pins.

 

That would help greatly if you had a manual for the pins, thanks.

 

Got your PM. See if this comes thru.....