im working on a 1999 honda accord lx 2.3l no ABS with about 200k on it . it had an accident in the snow where it slide into the curb on the passenger side and bent a few things up I need help.




PASSENGER REAR
there was clearly a bent lower control arm which was replaced but the tire is still alittle off . I think its just in and out .it looks like one of the control arms has a camber on it for adjustment is that correct? if how is the rear adjusted?


torque specs for replacing rear wheel bearings




FRONT PASSENGER SIDE


- besides a regular alignment the is clearly leaning out on the top and in on the bottom. it does need a lower ball joint but that would not change the angle .so looked over everything carefully and the only thing I could find that is drastically different is the steering knuckly looks like it got bent. the curved part of the steering kuckle going up to the upper control arm closest to to the shock on the driver side is about a tight pinkys width or 1/4" gap for me. then go to passenger side and the gap Is alittle over 2 pinkys lol. and I took some other measurements and it looks like that big curved piece going up to the control looks like it was the weak point. weird to me I thought something else would bend or break but everything else looks centered and all. CAN SOMEONE LOOK AT THAT THOSE TWO GAP ON THEIR CAR because I think its the knuckle. also how is the aligned?




who sells aftermarket new knuckles?
anyone have torque specs for everything
anyone have a procedure for working on the front end?

 

As far as the rear yes the camber is adjusted with the lower control arm assuming the upper control ar and ball joint and the trailing arm aren't damaged. Wheel bearing torques to 180ft lbs.

As far as the front, if the lower ballpoint has excessive play it will cause the camber to be out. The other common thing is a broken spring which will cause the tire to lean in. The spring usually always breaks near the top. Check it carefully with the car off the ground. If it's the knuckle that is bad, which I find hard to believe is the issue, then I recommend a salvage yard knuckle and replace the wheel bearing. Again it torques to 180ft lbs.

 

180lbs where for the center axle nut on the front??????


or you talk about just the mounting bolts for the hub


you have a link to an online manual PDF?

 

Axle nut.

 

Front: all are in ft. Lbs.

Upper ball 29 - 35
Lower ball 36 - 43
Lower control arm to body 40
Wish bone upper bolt 32
Wish bone lower bolt 47
Flange nuts for top of shock assembly 28
Radius rod self locking nut 32
Radius rod to knuckle 76
Outer tie rod end 29 - 35

Replace all cotter pins with new ones.

 

thanks do you have any idea what could be bent or off with that steering knuckle to shock gap I was explaining?

 

Need to see if you have a broken spring as mentioned earlier.

 

the spring looks ok

 

the top of the tire leans out and bottom leans in . bottom ball joint is bad but its not gonna effect the major i lean i have.

 

turtle still with me? i still have this thing up on jacks working on it slowly. got back on it today. ive been trying to look at the gaps of everything again. as i said before backside curve of the steering knuckle has a big gap to the lower shock part. alittle over an 1" where the driver side is tight about 1 /4" . today i see that maybe the upper control arm is also in a slightly different location compared to the good driverside. the inside upper control to the coil spring has a different gap also i need to take a measurement.