Ok first off let me say thanks in advance for any help/ideas. Second I am not a mechanic or close to so I hope I can find a fix that isn't to difficult.

So I recieved this car let's say on Christmas and it ran good. Got from my sister with 210k. Actually got it about thanksgiving time and my brother needed a car for like a month so he drove it and put on another 1k so now it has 211k mileage wise. Drove it for 2 weeks and then it got cold out like 5 degrees. Car wouldn't start. It would crank and crank and crank. Went and got some heat. Left car for few days. Came back when it was like 25-30 degrees outside. Tried starting. Same thing. Little under half tank of gas. Jumped on the trunk of car to shake up any clogs. No go. Walked away. Week later tried jumping for ****s and giggles. Stil no go it just cranked but No turn over. So I was thinking fuel or spark.

So walked away again. Waited for a 40 degree day. Had a buddy come by. We tried listening to fuel pump noise. Didn't hear anything so we changed the fuel pump....no go. Same issue. Listened to a buddy who recommended mechanic and towed car there. 2 days later mechanic called and said he had to reprogram the key. Bad English and basically got ripped off because when I went to go home in the car the d4 light blinking. Called mechanic and he said sounds like trans going bad and all he did was get the car to start. Remember he is Indian and his English bad. I couldn't talk to him. My ride already left and so I drove to autozone and got codes. So the car starts in 4th gear unless I manually shift. Then the next day I started the car and shoveling off snow. I crank the radio as I do that plus the heater on. Got back in car and hit wiper blades to clean glass and radio turned off. Revered up the car few times and the blades went doggie dog slow regardless if I was hitting the gas and radio would not come back on. So since I was home I figured fine I will turn off and back on. Nope battery not recharging. Took battery to autozone and charged. They said battery is ok. It's old but ok. Put back in car and let car run for a bit..next dat went to dunkin. Cause I'm a dunkin coffee addict then I was gonna go get alternator tested at autozone. It barly started leaving dunkin. Got to autozone. They said battery is bad. Something about 2%. So they can't test alternator. So I said fine let's replace battery.

Got a new battery in and then had them do the test and their machine doesn't detect the alternator and therefor can't get a read on it. So they said that its dead and needs to be replaced. I highly doubt that all these issues are coming all at once. I think there is an electrical issue that is causing all this.

Hopefully some here might have an idea of what's going on.

 

Yea, not really sure where to start with this one.

Check the fuses in the underdash fuse box, one of them goes to the alt (#6 15 amp). You might have to pull the alt and have it tested off the car.

 

It sounds like the alternator is bad? You can check this easily enough by using a volt/ohm meter on the battery terminals while the engine is running. A properly charging system will indicate around 13.5 volts. If you see 11.5 or 12 volts, this means the charging system isn't charging.

On a V-6 it's a pain to change out the alternator. The fan shroud and serpentine belt will need to be removed in order to remove and replace the alternator. Also the battery needs to be disconnected before removing and replacing the alternator. Add to that, working space is very limited. So unless you have the tools and ability? Have a qualified mechanic do this work.

The D-4 flashing is a transmission related code. The 98 through 02 Honda Accords and Civics with automatic transmissions were known for having transmission problems. You should have someone with a scan tool run a diagnostic check on the engine and transmission codes before doing any work on or replacing the transmission.

Good Luck

 

Poorman212 you are the man. thank you for saving me $$$.

so alternator passed the test and power functions seems good. i hope the fuse doesnt blow. bought a 4 pack of the 15A fuses.

still not out of the woods overall since the D4 light blinking. autozone told me the code was p0758 definition transmission stuc in 4th gear. i basically am manually shifting. but have only drove few times due to the other issues and not sure how bad this problem. so i drive it like 2-3 blocks to goto autozone lol.

ok so i would like to start looking for simple solutions if there is one like a fuse check. but i am not equipt with a nice tool set to do tests. i will have to break down and find a good mechanic.

now keep in mind the guy who got the car started said he spent hours poking around trying to find out why it wasnt starting. and im pretty sure he popped the ECU fuse. but thats just a few bucks. once i got it back from him is when the D4 light flashing and i having trans problems. so what did the idiot do to make this happen? or maybe it is just bad timing that other things going wrong with the car.

now remember i changed the fuel pump and then the mechanic ended up having to reprogram the key. which im not sure if keys go bad or did the ECU go bad and have to be reprogrammed?

other codes on this car for future fixes once i get the trans issue fixed if possible are

p0141 - h02s12 (heated oxygen sensor - bank 1 sensor 2) circuit heater malfunction

p0135 - A/F sensor 1 heater system malfuntion

p1298 - Electric load detector (ELD) circuit high input

but since the car was given to me for free and ran fine i wasnt worried about these till its time to do the emissions test. i think thats what those are for but not sure. my sister lives in Michigan and doesn't have emissions. i dont think they do cause i asked her and she was like ummmmmmm

ok trans D4 blinking..HELP please

come on poorman212 you are on a roll.

Thanks
Belal

 

P0758 is for shift B. There are some tests that can be done....I'll jump over a few of them and say test the resistance on the two pins/wires going to shift B. If in spec, pull shift be and clean the screen/gasket. While you have it off, you can apply 12v and ground to it while praying cleaner into the "ports". When was the last time the trans fluid was changed?

If the number 6 fuse was blown - that could cause the 0141 and the 0135.

So if the fuse was blown and now a new one is there and the charging issue is solved . You have the stored codes, clear them. Clear the codes and see which of them come back - I'm hoping the new fuse will clear the 0135, 0141 and 1298....most share the same "power source".

 

Thanks again poorman

The D4 stopped blinking and shifting is back to normal now

The codes are still there but car is driving like it was before. Man all that cause of a fuse lol go figure.

 

Might be worth the effort to re-check the fuses in the interior panel.

My Accord's Check Engine Light (CEL) was illuminated, due to these trouble codes: P1298, P0135, P0141, P0753 and P0758. The vehicle was also not starting out in 1st gear when D4 was selected. It felt like it was starting in 3rd or 4th gear. The engine ran normally; but the vehicle had a variety of other electrical issues, for example, the driver's side power window was inoperative at times; and the power locks would not respond.

I replaced the battery after getting stuck on the side of the road. I then replaced the alternator when I determined that it wasn't generating the proper charging current. With the car running, it would only generate 11.5 volts across the battery terminals. It should be at least 13.5 volts with the engine at operating temperature. I replaced the alternator; but still was only getting 11.5 volts across the terminals. Tested the fuses in the interior fuse panel, and found a problem with #5. According the diagram, #5 is for the SRS (Supplemental Restraint System), and was not making a good contact in the panel. Replaced the fuse; but it was still not getting a good connection. I could wiggle the fuse after plugging it in, and could hear clicks when it apparently completed the circuit. I added a "fuse tap" with the new fuse to act as a shim, and this seems to have corrected the issue. The fuse seems to be in the slot firmly. I cleared the codes, and Check Engine Light has remained off as of this writing.

My guess is that at some point in the car's history, someone had used a fuse tap to provide power for an electrical accessory, and it spread apart the contacts in the fuse panel permanently; so that a standard fuse no longer connects properly. I spent $300 for an alternator and battery (which I didn't need), and $1 for a fuse tap (which I did need). Expensive lesson, and the primary reason that I don't use fuse taps.