2002 Accord SE No spark in 3 Cylinders
Okay so, last Tuesday my car shut off randomly when I went to go to work.
I had recently changed my spark plugs and wires.
My boss and my dad say it’s either my battery or my starter.
I buy both, neither get my car started so my friend whose pretty car savvy takes a look at it.
He says it’s the either the fuel pump or the distributor.
I change the fuel pump and we check the distributor.
3 of 4 of the plugs get no spark(brand new plugs and wires, and with old wires)
So I buy a brand new distributor and still nothing, 3 of 4 still wont work, with only cylinder 1 giving me any hope.
We’ve been working on it tirelessly, making sure we dont mess anything up, watched a ton of videos on it and I’ve switched out a bunch of parts with brand new ones and nothing will work. I’m at a total loss right now. We made sure the wires are in the right order, made sure everything is on right like 10 times, made sure the spark plugs work but I can not get any spark out of cylinders 2, 3 and 4. Everything appears clean, is on right, brand new,
What else could possibly make the car behave like this?
I had recently changed my spark plugs and wires.
My boss and my dad say it’s either my battery or my starter.
I buy both, neither get my car started so my friend whose pretty car savvy takes a look at it.
He says it’s the either the fuel pump or the distributor.
I change the fuel pump and we check the distributor.
3 of 4 of the plugs get no spark(brand new plugs and wires, and with old wires)
So I buy a brand new distributor and still nothing, 3 of 4 still wont work, with only cylinder 1 giving me any hope.
We’ve been working on it tirelessly, making sure we dont mess anything up, watched a ton of videos on it and I’ve switched out a bunch of parts with brand new ones and nothing will work. I’m at a total loss right now. We made sure the wires are in the right order, made sure everything is on right like 10 times, made sure the spark plugs work but I can not get any spark out of cylinders 2, 3 and 4. Everything appears clean, is on right, brand new,
What else could possibly make the car behave like this?
There is a big difference for testing between a crank/no-start and a no-crank/no-start. Crank means when you turn the key to start the car, the starter motor cranks the engine. When the engine runs on its own is when you release the key on a normal start. So when you turn the key, does the starter crank the engine?
Also, how are you testing for spark?
Also, how are you testing for spark?
There is a big difference for testing between a crank/no-start and a no-crank/no-start. Crank means when you turn the key to start the car, the starter motor cranks the engine. When the engine runs on its own is when you release the key on a normal start. So when you turn the key, does the starter crank the engine?
Also, how are you testing for spark?
Also, how are you testing for spark?
I'd disconnect the battery and remove the distributor cap (keep the spark plug wires on on the cap). Use a 19mm socket to hand turn the engine on the crank pulley bolt. Turn the engine in the direction the tires rotate when you drive the car. Verify the distributor rotor spins as you hand crank the engine.
Is the coil for your car inside the distributor or outside? The distributor will have 4 spark plug wires if internal and 5 spark plug wires if external coil.
Do you have a way to check for codes?
Is the coil for your car inside the distributor or outside? The distributor will have 4 spark plug wires if internal and 5 spark plug wires if external coil.
Do you have a way to check for codes?
First off a word of advice, you need to Diagnose properly before throwing parts in ,it could be quite expensive and not fix your issue, was car running ok before you replaced plus and wires??
As PAhonda asked any codes?? if you used cheap aftermarket wires I have seen it causing such issues
As PAhonda asked any codes?? if you used cheap aftermarket wires I have seen it causing such issues
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patpatho
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Dec 27, 2006 04:50 PM



