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2002 Timing Belt Mark Placement Problem

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Old Jan 30, 2013 | 05:00 PM
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Question 2002 Timing Belt Mark Placement Problem

i've been replacing timing belt as per the ErictheCarGuy's video and have gotten to the point where i've installed the belt and lower cover. When i checked the timing marks they were off, so i turned the crankcase several (more like a 100) times and this was as close as i could get the timing marks to the correct position (see photos). Does anyone know what i did wrong? or are they okay?
Thanks for any advice.
 
Attached Thumbnails 2002 Timing Belt Mark Placement Problem-timing-mark.1.jpg.jpg   2002 Timing Belt Mark Placement Problem-timing-mark.2.jpg.jpg  
Old Jan 30, 2013 | 07:31 PM
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Difficult to be sure because of camera angle. Camshaft appears to be off, but I can't tell about crankshaft. Is it aligned to TDC?

Align crankshaft to TDC and check camshaft for error. There should be very little error, < 1/2 cog-cog width on camshaft. There are no "specs" on alignment to my knowledge.

good luck
 
Old Jan 31, 2013 | 09:50 AM
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Thanks for your response Tex. How about this.... i take the belts off and realign the pulleys and reassemble, how would i tighten the crankshaft pulley without the special honda tool or an impact wrench?
 
Old Jan 31, 2013 | 09:13 PM
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I've changed the timing bolt on my 2001 accord ex automatic a couple times now (no impact tools - all by hand) and used this tool. not sure of any other way it can be done.
 

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Old Feb 1, 2013 | 07:10 AM
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The honda crankshaft pulley restraint tool can be purchased on amazon for <$20. No other way w/o air impact, and it requires a powerful 1/2" air impact (> 500 ft-lbs rating) to work.

I have found that heating the head of the bolt w/ propane torch for 3-5 mins helps reduce torque requirement.

good luck
 
Old Feb 1, 2013 | 05:13 PM
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I use a 2 foot 1/2 drive breaker bar, with a 3 foot steel pipe over the handle for a cheater bar. It then takes my entire body weight to break that sucker loose.

and I certaintly don't put it back on that tight!
 
Old Feb 2, 2013 | 08:39 AM
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Here's a good video about heating.


I've used a propane torch w/ similar results. I apply heat evenly around the bolt head/washer for 3-5 mins. What happens is the bolt expands longitudinally reducing the compressive squeeze and friction between bolt head/washer/harmonic balancer.

good luck
 
Old Feb 2, 2013 | 10:55 AM
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For future ref, if the belt coming off is correct. Mark the belt and gear tooth (cam and crank) with something (marker, nail polish, ect).

Once the old belt is off, count the number of teeth between the marks. Transfer both marks, proper distance, to the new belt. Install the new belt being sure the marks on the new belt match to the marks on the crank and cam......done. Just do the tension adjustment and put it back together.
 
Old Feb 2, 2013 | 02:15 PM
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Thanks for all of this advice. I decided to order the tool off of amazon. While waiting for that to arrive, decided to do everything else. Wanted to do everything as per torque specs for the first time and gues what?....i sheared off the valve cover screws.....UGH. Any suggestions on this one?
 
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Old Feb 2, 2013 | 06:15 PM
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i misread the torque specs. i thought 86 seemed a bit high.
 



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