And here is a video of what I meant by "double nutting" the stud and removing it from the old head to install on the new one:

"http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=66ATKL4G04M"

 

Thanks PM and it makes sense.

Can you please have a look at the attached picts?

#1 is at TDC and Cam 'Up' mark is at 0 degrees. But still #2 and #3 valves are partially open, is it normal or it means valves are not seating properly?

Please advise, else I'll again contact the seller.

 

With the cam on - that is perfectly normal for the "other cyl's" to have some valves open.

Those other cyl's are in one of the other "four strokes" - or about to be.

Remember - intake, compression, power, exhaust. Somewhat simple way to think about it - TDC #1, means #1 is getting ready for the power stroke while the others are getting ready for one of the other three strokes.

I was away for a bit - dropping the wife off at the airport.

 

No problem at all. Hope she had a safe flight and travels.

You are absolutely right and honestly I never looked at a cylinder head with a cam on, so forgive my ignorance and thanks for explanation, I appreciate it.

Yes, we were able to adjust all valve lash, it's fun to do with cylinder head off of engine. It's NOT fun at all in Accord, while head was still there on the engine. Thanks for advising about valve adjustment, we used a strap wrench and it's easy peasy.

P.S: Double nut was easy peasy too, we were able to remove and install the stud in new cylinder head.

 

#1 & #4 pistons will be at the top of their stroke.
#2 & #3 pistons will be at the bottom of their stroke.

#1 valves will all be closed.
#2 & #3 valves will be open a little bit because they are supposed to overlap a bit.
Not sure about #4 valves but should be almost closed (#4 is at top of exhaust stroke).

 

Glad it worked out on the stud. Now you will have one of those random bolts/nuts/studs laying around that might come in handy someday.

If nothing else another skill has been learned

 

Thanks very much JB, yes we didn't put the head back yet, but pistons are exactly same, as you mentioned.

Now one question which is coming is mind is about old cylinderhead. We removed it by putting #1 at TDC. When we poured water into the ports, almost all were leaking. Based on this scenario, #1 and #4 should not leak, while #2 and #4 leakage would be normal, correct?

Is there any other way to test those valves on the old head?

 

Of course PM, and I appreciate your help and helpful video

 

For the old head...

Turn the camshaft to put each cylinder in turn at it's own position of "all valves closed". If you have a sprocket to put on the camshaft, then you can do that as follows:
arrow pointing up (12-o-clock) cylinder #1 (closest to sprocket)
arrow pointing to 9-o-clock = cylinder #3
arrow pointing to 6-o-clock = cylinder #4
arrow pointing to 3-o-clock = cylinder #2

If you don't have a sprocket, then you have to work out where the keyway in the camshaft is supposed to point.

Of course...
Those positions 12-o-clock etc. are with the head right-side-up. In order to pour water into the chambers, you'll have to turn the head upside-down.

 

Yes, that's exactly how we adjusted the valves too. So valves can only be tested with camshaft attached and can't be without it, correct?