I received the head today, it came with cam/plugs installed.

Couple of questions:

1- Exhaust side has only '2' bolts, while our old head has '3'. Code on our head is PMR-8 and on the one we received is PMR-11. I have contacted the seller, but is that a problem?

2- Should we remove the cam and use old cam or can use which came with this one?

3- How can we check all intake-exhaust valves that they are not leaking/bent/bad, by pouring water, as we tested our existing bad head?

Thanks for helping out guys

 

Not sure on the "casting" marks (8 vs.11) - just like Accords there might be some small differences in the heads but have no impact on performance?

 

1) Exhaust manifold held in place by only 2 bolts?

2) I would leave cam in place. Are you sure this head is intended for your block? We have seen lots of sad stories of guys attempting to marry new engines to non-matching ECUs. Make sure oil and coolant galleries align and head gasket matches all ports.

3) If this is a rebuilt head, the testing should have been performed for you.

good luck

 

First of all, as always thanks guys for your expert advice

PM, you are right, according to seller as long as PMR is there head is same, rest denotes different months/year.

TH, yeah one exhaust bolt in the cylinder head was missing, contacted seller and he is going to send the bolt.

It looks like the same head, but we removed our cylinder head cam at TDC. How can we make sure that this cam is at TDC too? Or it doesn't matter?

 

If a stud is missing, remove one from the old head? You can "double nut" one of the studs and remove it. That way you don't have to wait.

For the cam, pretty sure you just put on the gear - keyway makes sure it is lined up. Then turn the gear/cam to get the marks on the gear to head correct and you should be at TDC #1 on the cam.

Get the crank to TDC #1 - use the crank marks and since the head is off you can look at the piston as well.

 

PM, is there any chance valves will hit pistons w/ engine at TDC when turning camshaft only? It may be necessary to rotate before mounting to avoid.

I've must have done alignment of rebuilt head but don't remember how I managed. I thought head was at TDC before mounting. It should be possible to rotate camshaft w/ strap wrench as long as head is restrained.

good luck

 

Yea, didn't make that clear. Line up the cam BEFORE mounting the head to the engine. It was kind of vague in the next part where I said to line up the crank (after the cam, step #2) and that the head was still off the engine.

 

Again, thanks PM and TH.

Actually, seller is going to send a new 'stud'(now I know the name of that bolt ).

In terms of looking at the pistons, #1 should be at climax, correct?

Also, on head all valves should be closed, except #1, right? Crank is easy because we just need to align the timing mark on it.

 

The valves on #1 should be CLOSED, all of them - intake and exhaust.

Some of the other cyl's will be in differnt "stages" of open - don't worry about them.

A second thought - might go ahead and adjust the valve "lash" with the head off.

Yes the #1 piston should be at the top when the crank gear is at TDC.

Not sure on the Civic but it should be pretty close to the Accord - look at the procerure for adjust valve lash. Google may help you find a how to on the Civic just to be sure.

 

Think about it this way - with #1 at TDC, this is the point where combustion happens. So all valves should be closed allowing all of the power from the combustion to "push" the piston back down.