I have a 2004 Accord LX V6 with no power to interior electronics... door locks, dome/map lights, radio, HVAC lights, cigarette lighters, etc. However, power windows DO work. I took it to my mechanic and he couldn't figure it out.

I did some internet research which lead me to believe it was the MICU (multiplex control unit). I bought a new fuse box assembly online and switched it out (huge pain in the ***, no room to work down there) but when I turned on the car again, still no power inside. Does anyone have any alternative suggestions? Is it possible that I switched out the fuse box incorrectly? I don't have a multimeter, but the mechanic told me that nothing was grounded. I am trying to avoid a trip to the dealership but that might be my next step

 

When you thought it was the multiplexer, did you try to reboot it? Not too familiar with that, but I think there's a procedure where you put the wiper switch in a certain position then cycle the ignition switch...

 

Yes, I set the wiper switch to the middle-most setting and turned the ignition to ACC for 10 seconds. It didn't do anything.

 

The MICU reset with the intermittent wiper ring is for the 6th generation Accords (98-02).

For the 7th gen Accords (03-07) MICU, a battery cable reset is performed by disconnecting the negative and positive cables and connecting them together with a jumper wire for 15 minutes. -- Do not touch the battery terminals.

However, I don't believe the reset will change anything with your issue.

Your mechanic said nothing was grounded; so, did he check the grounds? You may consider picking up a multimeter to do some testing; otherwise, things are a guess.

 

Does the engine start and run?

Again, just a bit of info to firgure out what might be going on...sorry, wasn't sure by the info you posted.

EDIT: just me but the #15 40amp underhood fuse "seems" to be "common" for the items that are not working? Have a volt meter to check it, or pull it and inspect?

 

And I have to ask....what lead to this?

Just walked out to the car one day and "bam". Or was there anything done to the car "and then this happened"? - new radio install, new led lights installed, new "x" installed.

 

Well, it's been this way since I bought the car 2 months ago. The previous owner told me that everything went out after he got the AC fixed. That lead me to believe whoever worked on it before accidentally shorted out the MICU in the process.

Yes, it starts and runs - I drive it to work every day. I've checked all of the fuses (under dash and underhood) and all of them are fine. I wish it were as simple as replacing a fuse


Thanks everyone for your replies. It's frustrating that my mechanic basically "gave up" on the problem and now my choices are figure it out myself or go to the dealership.

 

Do you have a volt meter? If not you will need to get a simple on to test voltage and continuity. They can be had for >$10.

Ok, humor me on this. I'm going to start simple - power sockets. The circuits that are not working do not share a "common" ground, so again we are going to start with the simplest circuit and go thru it. I have a feeling if we figure it out, the rest will come easy.

Pull the #15 40amp fuse from the under hood fuse box (it is a clear "topped" square fuse unlike what you find under the dash-JCASE style). One side of the connection - in the fuse panel - should have battery voltage at all times (key off or on), does it?

Check the fuse for continuity - Does it have continuity? Don’t trust the “window”, it is hard to see thru and the smallest break in it and you are done.


Pull the #9 under dash fuse, one side of the connection in the fuse box should have battery voltage. Does it?

Check the #9 fuse for continuity, does it have continuity?


Next is the relay.

Pull the relay from the under dash fuse panel, I marked it with a red arrow and “X” in the pic.

Check the four pins in the fuse box. One pin should have battery voltage, this comes thru fuse #9, at all times…meaning the key is off. This should be either pin one or two in the pic of the relay.

Turn the key to “On”, either pin three or four should have battery voltage. If it does not, check #32 7.5amp fuse in the under dash fuse box…..just like above, one side has battery voltage WITH KEY ON and the fuse has continuity.

Now is where I need some feedback from you on which pin(s) into the relay (inputs) have battery voltage?

Almost there. From here it is pretty easy.

Did I ever say I HATE ELECTRICAL !

 

2004 Honda Accord EX 6 cyl, 4 door
How did this referenced problem get resolved???



QUOTE=poorman212;316963]Does the engine start and run?

Again, just a bit of info to firgure out what might be going on...sorry, wasn't sure by the info you posted.

EDIT: just me but the #15 40amp underhood fuse "seems" to be "common" for the items that are not working? Have a volt meter to check it, or pull it and inspect?[/QUOTE]