What's a typical price for these jobs at an independent mechanic?

New CV's (only need one, but going to get both done as I am sure the other is on it's way out. The bad one's boot is intact so it just wore out on it's own).

New struts / shocks (would the pre-built "quick" ones be cheaper overall?)

New rotors, drums and pads/shoes. I believe the calipers are fine.

Any other work to do at the 150K mark? The car is still in good shape just most of these problems all started now (we knew the struts were ready).

Thanks

 

For me it is a hard call........if you "bundle" most of this together you should get a break on the labor since many of the step to do these all at once are the same. So as you are calling around use that to try to help cut the labor.

From there, again labor rates differ from place to place and then the parts will cost different - can you buy them and have the shop install, no warranty from the shop if the parts go bad.

 

I used to do all this work myself, I just don't have the time anymore. My guy is pretty fair (been going to the shop for 30 years, used to be owned by the guys dad and now the current guy's son is doing tint/alarms and stereos in his own shop behind it).

He was saying around $1500-1600, he is pretty fair on the parts prices and will not install the totally cheap junk. I figure if I do this work all myself barring any problems like breaking a fastener or getting the wrong part, it would take probably a weekend with me working by myself.

 

This motor have a timing belt?

As far as price, it sounds like "your guy" is the only answer for you. There are people who would kill to have someone they trust. Let's say, you find someone, you don't know, who comes in 200 bucks under? I would hope, you'd eat the 200, and go with your guy.

As far as doing it yourself...you are right, many jobs have the potential for issues (broken/rounded-off/seized).

Roy

 

A few comments:

• Don't screw around with replacing the CV joints in your axles; it is way better/way faster/usually cheaper to simply buy new axles.
• Prebuilt struts can be cheaper if for no other reason than there is far less labor involved. Then there is the specter of a broken spring (not common, but not unusual either); if a broken spring is discovered in the disassembly process, having bought the prebuilt units will definitely be less expensive.
• If your brakes have some pad life left, milk'em 'till they don't; no real benefit to replacing them early.
• The only other thing I might recommend while you're in there are motor mounts, stabilizer bar bushings and end links, and control arm bushings (here again, buying a new control arm is often cheaper).
• Your engine does not have a timing belt so no worries there.

 

To the previous poster, yeah I trust my guy...only time I go elsewhere is when he tells me to (due to needing a specialized piece of equipment or alignment since he stopped doing alignments due to the good machines being not really profitable unless all you do is alignments).

For my BMW I have another indy that has all the BMW tools and gear, he's not as cheap, but not anywhere as pricey as BMW.

To the above, I plan on new axles. I have had friends have me install a rebuilt one and they wear out fast or simply look like they just pulled it off another vehicle.

The brakes are way past due. My wife had been driving it for a while while the wear sensors were going and the rear drums are both making noise now too.

I do plan to have them do an overall suspension/vehicle check and let me know what they find. I do trust the owner, but you never know if one of his mechanics may just be over zealous at replacing stuff. Fortunately, he has his guys all on salary so they can't fluff a job for extra commission like some shops.

Now I just need to find a replacement radio for the factory one, she only has manual single climate control and I want XM in the car without having one of those add-on units.

 

Turns out my struts and shocks really don't need replacing yet, but I may do the job anyway as RockAuto has the Monroe pre-builts for $220 (after $100 rebate) and the KYB Strut-Plus pre-builts for $320 (after $100 rebate). My guy wants $150 a corner though and I think that is a bit high for similar jobs I have done in the past with coil overs.