In my experience the clutch will have some runout, so measurements will vary. It may help to push high spot down and recheck. You are looking for a gap that averages > spec limit.

good luck

 

Well, I finally got to work on it yesterday. The compressor quit coming on all together during the week. When I checked it yesterday, it was getting 12 V to the compressor, but not engaging at all. I even brought a 12V wire straight from the battery and nothing. Checked the resistance on the coil and it was an open circuit. Therefore, it appears that it was the coil going bad all along and it finally went out completely during the week.


Honda wants $183 for a new coil. Regular Parts stores like O-Rielly & NAPA don't carry the coil or clutch, only a complete compressor that requires purchase of a drier and expansion valve and a can of oil to have a warranty. Best price for a decent brand of compressor is about $315. I found a Denso compressor for $340. Compressor turned smooth and easy by hand, but it is almost 10 yrs old. Clutch gap was a little over the max limit of 0.024", but not by much. I will re-shim it if I replace the coil. Debating on a whole new compressor, unless I can get the coil cheaper than $120 or so."


Anyone know a good source for a good, but cheap coil? Is re-using a 10 yr old compressor a bad idea?


Thanks again for all the help!

 

You can buy entire used compressor and remove the coil for < $100. Check car-part.com and ebay. Use car-part.com to find a salvage yard near your location.

Replacing clutch coil in place w/o discharging is possible but challenging. Following is very similar repair on Kia Sedona. It will be different on Accord but principles are same.


good luck

 

I just went through the same thing last month and found Rock Auto had the best prices around. They sell just the compressor or compressor and component kits for not much more than the OEM coils and clutch would cost you.


Not sure the link will work correctly or not.

 

Found the H20-7303 Coil w/ wire and plug for $22.09 + $15.77 UPS Ground shipping from ACKits.com. May be cheap, but I could buy 5 by the time I buy on OEM coil. Should install this weekend.

 

I've used ackits products w/ good results.

Do you plan to repair in place or discharge, and remove compressor?

In any case a followup of your findings would be appreciated.

good luck

 

Coil arrived today. Going to try to install it tomorrow (Thursday evening). I already rented a clutch holding tool from AutoZone and tried it and was able to remove the center bolt and remove the clutch w/o a pulley remover. There was only one shim. It was 1.22mm thick, therefore I wont have any clutch gap adjustment unless I purchase some shims. It didn't appear far out of spec, but it was difficult to measure with a feeler gauge since the pulley is in the way. The feeler gauge has to come in at an angle due to the pulley surrounding the clutch gap. I guess that's why a dial indicator is recommended in the Honda manual. I didn't attempt to remove the pulley snap ring and remove the pulley and coil. I will have to remove the (4) compressor mounting bolts to get to the snap ring w/ pliers. From the manual, it doesn't appear that I will need to rent a puller to remove the pulley. Please correct me if you know different. Seems pretty easy. Just a little tight on space. Any advice is appreciated

 

I haven't done this on a late model Accord, On earlier models, the coil could be released from compressor w/ firm raps from a hammer around the coil. Not too difficult.


good luck

 

Got the coil installed last night. It cooled great!!! Thought my 17 yr old daughter would finally quit sweating it out. The new coil resistance was right at the upper spec limit (I think it was 4.6 Ohms.... if I remember correctly). I measured the clutch gap with a dial indicator and it was right at the spec upper limit of 0.024". Everything worked great last night, but I noticed that the coil area was a little hot to the touch. I wasn't sure if that was normal due to normal engine heat. Today the A/C quit working again. The compressor is getting 12V, but seems to be straining to engage the clutch (it wasn't doing that last night). The new coil also seem to draw too much amps. I say this because my brother tested it with some type of circuit tester he has and it would trip his tester repeatedly. The relays were switched and no difference. The radiator cooling fans are working properly.
Would a bad clutch cause the new coil to draw more amps or overheat? The compressor seems in good smooth quiet condition. Should I try to change the clutch and coil????

 

Just took off clutch and pulley. Coil is melted and made a huge mess. Plastic / copper is smeared in the pulley and clutch plate gaps. Bearing still seems smooth, but likely got hot. A little grease came out from heat, but that's it for bearing. I'm reluctant to try to clean this mess and re-use heated parts. Clutch plate is a little blue-ish, so it got real hot. I don't know what happened. Snap rings still in place. I rotated the pulley by hand after everything was assembled and it was very smooth. At this point, I'm probably better off scraping everything. Its probably not worth another coil, a new clutch and pulley with bearing. Thinking I just as soon replace this 9 yr old compressor (even though it still seems good) and get a new coil, clutch and pulley w/ bearing and chalk it up to lesson learned. Your thoughts???