I have a 2007 Accord, 4 cylinder, auto about 100K and great car got with a few thousand miles on it literally brand new. I did brakes all around about 20,000 miles ago talked into buy parts at local NAPA store. I have not been satisfied with the components. Although the car performs flawlessly, including braking, I noticed driver side rear disc almost totally rusty except about a 1.0" max strip around the thing indicating the outboard pad is not fully contacting the rotor surface. Checked passenger side same thing, not as bad. I pulled off drivers side rear tire, pulled the caliper and the rubber piston boot is all torn up and seems twisted a bit. Caliper has cross grooves to adjust with special tool or big screwdriver. I have the tool.

Pulling off the pads was extremely difficult, the edges were super rusty so I wirebrushed them clean as well as the clips they are supposed to slide back and forth on, and reinstalled the pads until I figure this out. The inboard surface of the rotor was totally shiny as expected indicating the inboard pad is working fine. However, the inboard pad was worn down almost entirely to the squeak indicator and not uniformly - more wear to rear. Same with outboard pad but much, much more brake lining surface.

Is this something that is common? I think the pads fit way too tight into the assembly. I cannot imagine that this design is that great. Are calipers a common problem? Can they be rebuilt? are they generally replaced? Obviously there is some function but rubber boot mangled.

It looks like new calipers, pads and rotors both sides and if this is a common thing I am not impressed. This is our 4th Accord and we've had more Toyotas. I have Matrix for my driver and 4 Runner too.

I appreciate any help on this as we get into serious wrenching mid week this coming week.

 

Who did the work? Did you change anything besides the pads? The calliper is not adjusting, either because the slide pin is stuck, or because of the jammed pads. Did you remove rust from the calliper under the clips?

 

I did the work and have done brakes on my cars for years - including the previous three Accords. I installed new rotors. Agree on caliper not adjusting, not sure about side pin but agree cause could be jammed pads. I removed lots of rust, did not remove the SS clips. I'd hate to have to replace calipers if I don't have to. I also have not seen this design before - Toyota is much different. Ideas? Thanks!!

 

I used NAPA parts and will not ever again. I know the rule about OEM Honda parts and/or Toyota but I thought I'd give NAPA a shot - local store, new community we moved to. The pads were sold as ceramic and they are not ceramic and made a mess out of my alloys. We live in Michigan so we have salty roads.

 

When you turn the calliper piston in, you have to be carefull not to twist the boot, and also make sure the little tab on the inner pad lines up with the slot in the piston. They can be rebuilt, but that's up to you. If the boot is damaged, the piston will probably feeze up shortly.

The pads should not be tight in the calliper. Maybe there is rust buildup under where the end clips are, and the rust is pushing the clips tighter against the pads. Make sure the next pads slide inside the clips, and apply a small amount of the mollycote grease on the edge of the backing plate where it goes into the clip.
Looks like you'll be doing this brake job again. This link may give you some other helpful hints on doing Honda brakes.
http://www.tegger.com/hondafaq/rustybrakes/brakes1.html

 

Here are rear brake pad replacement instructions. It is important that the caliper piston be aligned with the tab on the brake pad for more even wear on the inner pad. Generally, you turn the piston back in and then have it in a " + " pattern to align with the tab.

Rear brake pad replacement

I generally will pull the slide pins out to examine the condition and re-grease the caliper slide pins with silicone based brake grease. There is a ridge on the slide pin, so just use gentle finger pressure to slide the rubber boot off the ridge of the slide pin first (that way you don't pull the rubber boot out with the slide pin), then pull the slide pin out.

 

Thanks for the help - I assume the twisted, messed up boot can be replace on caliper but not a great idea - probably water infiltrated so best to replace. I am puzzled how the boot got screwed up. I must have done it when backing down piston w/ tool. Perhaps I needed to hold the boot in place and go easy on turning the piston. I did not grease the pins - shade tree mechanic goof up. Looks like new caliper(s) will be necessary. Any tips on best manufacturer if not Honda original parts? My bet is Honda parts are seriously expensive. Budget seriously tight - all my available cash is tied up in bills. THANKS!!!

 

When twisting the piston in, I normally pay very close attention to the rubber boot. Sometimes I have to hold the boot for a bit as I get started. Sometimes it's possible to "un-tangle" the boot, but of course if it's actually TORN then you're stuck.

 

Thanks for the rear pad replacement instructions.

I, too, am about to replace the rear pads on my 2007 Accord. I have just over 100,000 miles and the originals are about done.