General Tech Help Good at troubleshooting? Have a non specific issue? Discuss general tech topics here.

2008 Accord Rear Defrost Not Working [Confirmed Fix]

Thread Tools
 
Search this Thread
 
Old Oct 19, 2013 | 11:06 AM
  #21  
Joslinm's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Newest Of Newbies
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 35
From:
Default

Originally Posted by poorman212
Not really something that I can put into words.....the manual has about three pages of directions.

Can you get to the "tabs" and verify voltage and ground without removing the trim?
unfortunately not. I've got to remove the trim to get to the connections. Not a job I really want to do. Will attempt this afternoon.
 
Old Oct 19, 2013 | 02:59 PM
  #22  
Joslinm's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Newest Of Newbies
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 35
From:
Default

Originally Posted by redbull-1
If there was 12 volt at the Grn wire with rear defog on, relay is good even without having to swap the relays.

The problem is further down the circuit toward the rear. It can even be a loose ground connection at Ground G801 behind the right C pillar trim panel area (this has been known to occur).
Got the right panel off and I see no green wire or connector. I did get a voltage from one of the wires on the black connector that goes into that little silver box and chassis, but only for a very short time (seconds) and then not a bit of juice to anything. Apparently that little box is for the antenna? The top grid is the antennna?
Only the bottom connection in the picture is the defogger?
See Picture
http://invite.homestead.com/defog.JPG
 

Last edited by Joslinm; Oct 19, 2013 at 03:08 PM.
Old Oct 19, 2013 | 03:42 PM
  #23  
redbull-1's Avatar
Super Moderator
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 7,099
From: United States
Default

That's the antenna. The rear defogger lead is the one further down. The ground is not in your picture. My previous posts showed the connector and ground.

Be very careful in that area due to the airbag. Also make sure none of the trim panel has white stress marks or fractures, since in an accident the airbag may deploy not in its intended path if a trim panel already is weakened or fractured.
 
Attached Thumbnails 2008 Accord Rear Defrost Not Working [Confirmed Fix]-antenna.jpg  
Old Oct 19, 2013 | 04:31 PM
  #24  
Joslinm's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Newest Of Newbies
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 35
From:
Default

Originally Posted by redbull-1
That's the antenna. The rear defogger lead is the one further down. The ground is not in your picture. My previous posts showed the connector and ground.

Be very careful in that area due to the airbag. Also make sure none of the trim panel has white stress marks or fractures, since in an accident the airbag may deploy not in its intended path if a trim panel already is weakened or fractured.
Can't see it without taking out the rear deck
 
Old Oct 19, 2013 | 05:44 PM
  #25  
redbull-1's Avatar
Super Moderator
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 7,099
From: United States
Default

Rear defogger should be turned on. With your voltmeter, touch the red lead to defogger connector B (connector B is visible in your picture) and the black lead to the chassis metal. Is there voltage coming through the connector B wire? If yes, at least power made it through to the right rear.
 
Old Oct 19, 2013 | 09:06 PM
  #26  
Joslinm's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Newest Of Newbies
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 35
From:
Default

Originally Posted by redbull-1
Rear defogger should be turned on. With your voltmeter, touch the red lead to defogger connector B (connector B is visible in your picture) and the black lead to the chassis metal. Is there voltage coming through the connector B wire? If yes, at least power made it through to the right rear.
Did that. No voltage at all
 
Old Oct 20, 2013 | 05:53 PM
  #27  
redbull-1's Avatar
Super Moderator
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 7,099
From: United States
Default

I looked further at the circuit diagrams and wire routing. Connector B is the ground connector (-) that leads up from ground connection G801. So, you shouldn't be seeing battery voltage (+) there. Connector A (+) on the left C pillar is where battery voltage should be coming through.

Set your multimeter to read resistance (ohms). Ground one of the test leads to some bare metal and then touch the other test lead to Connector B. The resistance should be zero or very low.
 

Last edited by redbull-1; Oct 20, 2013 at 05:58 PM.
Old Oct 21, 2013 | 07:06 AM
  #28  
Joslinm's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Newest Of Newbies
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 35
From:
Default

Originally Posted by redbull-1
I looked further at the circuit diagrams and wire routing. Connector B is the ground connector (-) that leads up from ground connection G801. So, you shouldn't be seeing battery voltage (+) there. Connector A (+) on the left C pillar is where battery voltage should be coming through.

Set your multimeter to read resistance (ohms). Ground one of the test leads to some bare metal and then touch the other test lead to Connector B. The resistance should be zero or very low.
with the meter on the 200 setting, I get 15
 
Old Oct 21, 2013 | 09:30 AM
  #29  
redbull-1's Avatar
Super Moderator
Joined: Oct 2010
Posts: 7,099
From: United States
Default

I should have clarified my instructions, was this resistance reading done at the Blk electrical harness connector?
 
Old Oct 21, 2013 | 10:53 AM
  #30  
Joslinm's Avatar
Thread Starter
|
Newest Of Newbies
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 35
From:
Default

Originally Posted by redbull-1
I should have clarified my instructions, was this resistance reading done at the Blk electrical harness connector?
reading taken between chassis and the black connector to the far right in my picture
 



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 12:51 AM.