87 accord no spark
#1
87 accord no spark
Hello!
Trying to help fix my friend 87 accord. No spark.. Coil has power on the right side connector..Fuel pump comes on then shuts off when the key is turned on. I'm not seeing a check engine light when the key is turned on, just an oil light..No relay clicking under the dash. Checked for power at the ecu fuse and it has power. The fuse is good. When I plug and unplug #10 fuse ecu nothing happens.. I am trying to find the main relay and can't seem to find it.. The rpm tach does not move while cranking.. Any help would be cool.. Thanks...
Trying to help fix my friend 87 accord. No spark.. Coil has power on the right side connector..Fuel pump comes on then shuts off when the key is turned on. I'm not seeing a check engine light when the key is turned on, just an oil light..No relay clicking under the dash. Checked for power at the ecu fuse and it has power. The fuse is good. When I plug and unplug #10 fuse ecu nothing happens.. I am trying to find the main relay and can't seem to find it.. The rpm tach does not move while cranking.. Any help would be cool.. Thanks...
#6
Its not there???
86, 87, 88 and 89 Honda Accord and some Acura Integra relay location removal procedure:
The main relay is located just right above the hood release, inside the dash panel bolted to the left kick panel with a bolt that will fit a 10 mm socket. It has seven wires from the connector. Older Acura Legends is located behind the fuse panel near the firewall.
86, 87, 88 and 89 Honda Accord and some Acura Integra relay location removal procedure:
The main relay is located just right above the hood release, inside the dash panel bolted to the left kick panel with a bolt that will fit a 10 mm socket. It has seven wires from the connector. Older Acura Legends is located behind the fuse panel near the firewall.
- Remove the coin box (for a better view.)
- With a 10 mm socket or wrench., reach deep inside and at the top of the relay there you will feel a bolt.
- Unbolt it. (If you cannot unbolt then you may dislodge the relay from the the steel flange using a large flat head screw driver or pull the relay guts out of its casing. See drawing D below.)
- If you damage the flange, you may be able to flatten the flange back to shape.
- Bring the relay down and unplug the connector by squeezing the locking tab then separate the connector from the relay.
- See installation at the bottom of this page.
#8
someone can correct me if I am wrong but if the OP has +12 on the coil then he does not have a main relay problem.
He has a ignition pick-up problem.
The pick-up is what sends the negative pulse to the coil to make it spark.
He has a ignition pick-up problem.
The pick-up is what sends the negative pulse to the coil to make it spark.
#9
crispin - yes chasing the relay is not where the OP needs to be.
However the coil needs to be tested-both sides-and then the ICM/igniter before getting to the pickup.
My post about the model (DX, LX or LXi) and the realy was more to get a tad bit more information from the OP. There are minor differences that would be nice to know.
However the coil needs to be tested-both sides-and then the ICM/igniter before getting to the pickup.
My post about the model (DX, LX or LXi) and the realy was more to get a tad bit more information from the OP. There are minor differences that would be nice to know.
#10
Having been on this website for a long time I can tell you that the O.P. will continue until he changes the main relay and only then will he believe it isn't the problem.
A test light flashing on one side of the coil will tell the tale.
"You can lead a horse to water......."
Last edited by hondadude; 04-17-2011 at 11:24 AM.