89 accord LXI engine light on
on my 89 accord LXI i could not find a OBD2 port but my engine light is on how do i find a code or does it even show a code.the problem on my accord is 8 out of 10 times it will crank up with no problem at all.then 2 times out of 10 it will crank up but its like its flooding or a bad miss but if you hold the gas down for about 10 to 15 seconds it will clear up and run find.but then 2 out of 10 times it will just spin over like its out of time and never hit a lick. then i can go back out a hr later it will crank right up can someone help me find my problem .THANKS
Oh, a 3rd gen
, I love the little guys. Still have one in the driveway.
Anyway, slide the drivers seat all the way forward. From the back seat, look under the drivers seat, you will see a "plastic box". To the inside/center console of the box there will be a "flap" on that box, open it....pull from the top. There will be a red light there.
Turn the key to on/pos II (where the key would be as you are driving down the road). The red light will blink the code......you will want to watch and count it through several cycles to be sure you get the proper count....trust me, doing this alone, by the time you turn the key to "on" and get your head behind the seat you have already missed a few "blinks" of the light.
, I love the little guys. Still have one in the driveway.Anyway, slide the drivers seat all the way forward. From the back seat, look under the drivers seat, you will see a "plastic box". To the inside/center console of the box there will be a "flap" on that box, open it....pull from the top. There will be a red light there.
Turn the key to on/pos II (where the key would be as you are driving down the road). The red light will blink the code......you will want to watch and count it through several cycles to be sure you get the proper count....trust me, doing this alone, by the time you turn the key to "on" and get your head behind the seat you have already missed a few "blinks" of the light.
Last edited by poorman212; Sep 11, 2016 at 12:32 PM. Reason: correcting info
92-95 Accord, Civic, Civic Del Sol and Prelude
Retrieving Codes
With ignition off, insert jumper wire in service check connector terminals, located behind right side of dash on Accord, Civic and Civic Del Sol and near center console on Prelude. Turn ignition switch to ON position. Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) will be indicated by a series of long and short flashes on MIL. The number of long flashes indicates the number in the 10s column. The number of short flashes indicates the number in the 1s column. For example, 4 long flashes followed by 3 short flashes would indicate DTC 43.
Image used with permission Copyright © 2001 ALLDATA LLC.
Clearing Codes
Disconnect the negative battery cable for at least 10 seconds to clear codes.
Retrieving Codes
With ignition off, insert jumper wire in service check connector terminals, located behind right side of dash on Accord, Civic and Civic Del Sol and near center console on Prelude. Turn ignition switch to ON position. Diagnostic Trouble Codes (DTCs) will be indicated by a series of long and short flashes on MIL. The number of long flashes indicates the number in the 10s column. The number of short flashes indicates the number in the 1s column. For example, 4 long flashes followed by 3 short flashes would indicate DTC 43.
Image used with permission Copyright © 2001 ALLDATA LLC.
Clearing Codes
Disconnect the negative battery cable for at least 10 seconds to clear codes.
To re-set the codes - I prefer to just pull the ecu/back up fuse from the underhood fuse box....yea you have to reset a few things but you would still have to do the same either way you go.
Code "2" is for the O2 sensor,,,, I think B, which I can't remember right now if that is the one "pointing" to the drivers or pass side.
At this point, be sure the exhaust manifold has all of the nuts to the head, these seem to like to break the ones on the drivers side of the manifold "shrug"
IF there are no exhaust leaks.....pretty sure the O2 is done. We could get into testing....and I hate to jump to "parts replacement without it"......but the age and miles are there.
Just me and if you can, I'd replace both "a" and "b" sensors
Code "2" is for the O2 sensor,,,, I think B, which I can't remember right now if that is the one "pointing" to the drivers or pass side.
At this point, be sure the exhaust manifold has all of the nuts to the head, these seem to like to break the ones on the drivers side of the manifold "shrug"
IF there are no exhaust leaks.....pretty sure the O2 is done. We could get into testing....and I hate to jump to "parts replacement without it"......but the age and miles are there.
Just me and if you can, I'd replace both "a" and "b" sensors
O2 Sensors. Open the hood and look right in the center of the car between the rad and the engine. You will see the exhaust manifold, where the four cyl go into on, there will be two O2 sensors screwed into the exhaust.
You can look at places like rockauto, amazon, ebay, ect for prices and pictures.
The two are different so if and when you go to replace them be sure to get them correct. I can dust off the old manual I have for these and help in more detail if and when the time comes...the code (2) points to sensor B, which is the one towards the pass side of the car......so if you can only test one of them, start there.
Me, pull the ECU/Clock fuse from the underhood fuse box........wait about 10~15 seconds and put it back. Restart the car, drive the car for a while and see if the code(s) come back....if not, call it a day and be happy.
If they do come back....check for exhaust leaks. Again I've had a few of these where the nuts/studs holding the exhaust manifold to the head have come off or broken. An exhaust leak can throw off the readings of the sensor(s) so if there is one address it first.....then clear and re-check for codes.
Of the code(s) do come back....I hate to throw money at parts but O2's do wear out and IMO should be considered regular maint items - just like spark plugs, dist cap and rotor, ect - so I would get two new ones, replace them and re-check for code(s).
You can look at places like rockauto, amazon, ebay, ect for prices and pictures.
The two are different so if and when you go to replace them be sure to get them correct. I can dust off the old manual I have for these and help in more detail if and when the time comes...the code (2) points to sensor B, which is the one towards the pass side of the car......so if you can only test one of them, start there.
Me, pull the ECU/Clock fuse from the underhood fuse box........wait about 10~15 seconds and put it back. Restart the car, drive the car for a while and see if the code(s) come back....if not, call it a day and be happy.
If they do come back....check for exhaust leaks. Again I've had a few of these where the nuts/studs holding the exhaust manifold to the head have come off or broken. An exhaust leak can throw off the readings of the sensor(s) so if there is one address it first.....then clear and re-check for codes.
Of the code(s) do come back....I hate to throw money at parts but O2's do wear out and IMO should be considered regular maint items - just like spark plugs, dist cap and rotor, ect - so I would get two new ones, replace them and re-check for code(s).
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