Yes i had zero voltage. And I had 9.5 voltage for the new test you just suggested.

 

To keep the thread simple, lets figure out the main fuel relay inputs. Make sure you are using the volt meter on the electrical harness unplugged and not the relay itself. Just trying to be thorough.

For the individual tests below, keep the black volt meter lead on the #2 black wire. The red volt meter lead will go on the wire listed below. Let me know if you get 12V or not for eah wire.

#1 yel/blu. This should read 12V all the time.
#5 blk/yel. This should have 12V when the key is in the II position.
#4 blu/red. This should have 12V when key is turned to start the vehicle. (This is the repeat of the previous test where you got ~zero volts).

 

Yes I got the battery voltage for each except for the red/blue wire. I got 9.5 reading of voltage for the red/blue wire.

 

The next step is to test for voltage on the black/white wire at the ignition switch electrical connector when you put the key to the start position. You'll need to test with the electrical connector plugged in and use a pin (or paperclip) to make contact from where the wire enters the the connector (back-probe). Use a bare metal bolt for your volt meter ground.

The ignition switch sends power from the black/wht wire through a fuse then to the blu/red leading the main fuel relay. I don't have a good wiring diagram for your 89 accord, but this goes through the #10 fuse. When you look at the #10 fuse, there are 2 tabs on the top. Test for voltage on each fuse post (with the fuse still plugged in) by touching the red volt meter lead to a post and have the black volt meter lead on a good ground. Both posts should have 12V.

Let us know what you find on the blk/wht wire and at fuse #10.

 

The battery voltage to begin was 12.61. For the first test the voltage from the black /white wire I received a reading of 10.32 after cranking the starter. Then I went back out to read the battery again and it read 12.55.
For the second test the bottom of the fuse after cranking the starter it read from 10.24 and began dropping down to 10.21. I did not remember to read the battery between top and bottom of fuse.
But the top of the fuse I did last and after cranking the battery, it read from 10.24 down to 10.16.
And I rechecked the battery and it was at 12.42.

 

New information: I just redid this test on the relay harness( without the relay of course) again.
I began the test at 12.6
My reading were as follows
Yellow and blue 12.6, Black and yellow 12.48, and Red and blue 9.52

 

I'm forgetting that running the starter will drop battery voltage, because the starter draws a lot of amps. The 10.3V may be real battery voltage when the starter is cranking the engine. You can try charging your battery, remove the starter fuse, then retry the tests above. I'm almost 100% sure you will see ~12.6V if the starter doesn't crank when repeating the tests.

We know you are missing power at the main fuel relay #4 blu/red wire.

The route the power takes is:
+ battery post
White wire at ignition switch
blk/wht wire via ignition switch turned to start position.
#10 fuse (is this fuse in the engine bay fuse box or in the under dash fuse box?).
blu/red wire
main fuel relay

Please correct me if I'm wrong, but your power is missing between the fuse box and the main relay. There has to be a break in the wire or a corroded/poor connection at an electrical connector. The issue can be inside the fuse box past fuse #10, but before where the wire harness connects.

I'd probably remove the fuse box and look for a blu/red wire (there may be multiple). Alternatively, follow the blu/red wire from the main relay to the fuse box to see if the wire harness has any damage, like a spot where the wire harness was rubbing against something.

 

I was responding when you gave the update. So a battery will build a surface charge, so it may read 12.6V. When you put a load on it, it will drop to the real charge.

 

Your response changes the next step although the routing of the power is correct in post #17.

Here is your next step. Unplug the electrical connector to the ignition switch. Use a jumper wire from the large white wire to the blk/wht wire to the ignition switch.

Measure the voltage on each top post of fuse #10 and on the blu/red wire at the main fuel relay. Just let me know the voltage at each spot.

EDIT: Jumping that wire will also cause your starter to crank the engine!

 

Ok, so the original check at Battery begins at 12.5V
Fuse Test:
The top of the #10 fuse post reads at 10.7-10.8V while cranking the starter with the wire. (I was unsure if removing the starter fuse would mess the test up so I figured Id provide feedback doing the test this way first, and as the 10v range seems consistent to last tests, Im hoping my decision was good.)
The second Battery reading is at 12.47V
Bottom #10 Fuse post reading is at 9.97-9.98V (for a second it read above 10 but i couldnt see it quick enough, consistent at 9.7 while cranking for a few seconds)
Relay harness Red/Blue wire test:
Battery begins at 12.42
Red/Blue wire (relay harness) reads 9.58-9.59
Battery end reading is at 12.41 after tests
10 minutes later Battery reads at 12.49.
I will go get a battery charger for whatever tests are left. RN
Thanks again for your help