Your issue may be the wiring to the ECU and not the ECU?

Remove the blue tape from one of the connections and see how the previous mechanic connected the wires together. Post a pic as well.

 

Which color wire would make the ECU throw a code of a broken ECU?

 

The ECU runs on voltage and grounds, so any connection that loosened during vibration or heat/cooling/corrosion could cause a faulty voltage to the ECU. I'm not saying you should inspect each wire. I was wondering how the wires were connected to the original wire harness. I wasn't sure if they were soldered together or just wrapped around the original.

I'd say with the wiring situation to go with a US ECU, since the car is already wired for it. A quick test is to connect the ECU and use something like a wood dial to push on the blue tape areas to maybe locate a bad connection if your fuel pump primes?

 

random fuse! 7.5 amp. red/blue wire and thicker gauge black white wire. id like help determining the purpose of it.
​​​​​​Got a used unit and it has the same problem,

 

I am almost 100% certain that the fuse in the picture is not original from the factory. Try to trace that wiring to the source to see what was modified. Let us know the source.

The size fuse is related to the wire thickness, and the wire thickness is designed for the current required to run the components downstream. Never install a larger fuse or you can can cause severe wiring damage. Is the fuse you have pictured working, where it has power on both sides of tabs on top?

EDIT: The alarm question is because a failing aftermarket alarm can cause strange starting issues. The stereo will have nothing to do with the issues you are having on your car.

 

I do not know the source, and why im asking if there is a way to determine the source.

 

Use your VIN and your shop manual to figure out the original configuration on your accord.

I had you troubleshoot a blu/red wire for the main relay earlier and now a random fuse has a blu/red wire. This can be related and is why I asked you to trace the wire.

Please see post #14 or copy of my response below about how to test fuses.

Here is a youtube video on how to test fuses while they are plugged in. A test light is better for this test, but a volt meter will work.

 

What is this red/blue one for? or rather, What are the the other red/blue ones for that i was testing? What could this black/white one be for? where are they Supposed to originate from and go to? What purpose do the red/blue and thicker black/white one serve? As in is there a way to determine what they are for based on the color of it, the thickness of them, the amps of them? Because if the color determines what it is for then i/we might be able to also determine what it is for and if its the correct amp, eh?

 

wondering if this 2volt difference can really make an ECU not even have an LED light up.

 

I can't answer your questions, because your wiring is modified. You can also have multiple blu/red or blk/wht wires in your system for completely different purposes, so somewhere in your wiring a blu/red and blk/wht has to be cut or capped. That is why I asked you to try and trace out the wiring. Or look for other modifications in your system.

For the lone fuse, figure out when the fuse has power on both sides. Try with different key positions, because that may give you a clue on what wires you are testing. Let us know what wire(s) have power in each key position.

A 7.5 amp fuse is the smallest current fuse in your car. If the fuse is working, then you are on a circuit with <7.5 amp current and your fuse is allowing current to flow through it. I just don't know how the wiring was modified and more importantly why.