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90 accord ECU help

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Old Jan 17, 2011 | 08:28 AM
  #31  
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Originally Posted by Dannyboi40
...
I narrowed down to evidence, because I read that when the del just stays on when you short the service wires than that meant evidence was shot...
Not sure what you mean there. But when you jumper the SCS connector and the CEL stays on without blinking, that simply means there's no error codes stored.
 
Old Jan 17, 2011 | 12:28 PM
  #32  
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LOL my Damn phone trys to spell for me... ECU shows as evidence Haha... OK so CEL staying on means no error codes.. which means my old ecu was fine... now I have 3... that's cool lol.. ill be buying some heat sink gel and coating the icm with it... and someone else said possibly fuel filter, its only 14 bucks and I'm sure it will need to be done anyway...

Odd that it stalls, and no code is being given... she is runnin good tho, just till it cuts off...
 
Old Jan 17, 2011 | 01:55 PM
  #33  
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Well, that behavior of the CEL doesn't prove the ECU is good either... it's just not a real common thing to fail.
 
Old Jan 17, 2011 | 06:14 PM
  #34  
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This sync gel is very small.. I got 2... where on icm do I apply ?
 
Old Jan 17, 2011 | 06:18 PM
  #35  
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Remove screws that mount the icm to it's base and spread heat conducting grease on base of icm.

A thin continuous coating is all that's necessary. More is not better.

good luck
 
Old Jan 17, 2011 | 06:22 PM
  #36  
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Put heat sink on the bottom part where the ICM where is sits on the distributor.

One thing I forgot to ask was to check that the 7.5 amp radio/backup fuse in the engine bay fuse box is good. Also check the ECU fuse (I think it is the #1 fuse 10amp). Fuse location/identification should be in the owners manual.
 
Old Jan 17, 2011 | 06:45 PM
  #37  
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Pulling icm now to apply heat sync....

Both those fuses are brand new and working, not blown.

I installed a factory radio last night while waiting for car to stall... it worked, but when car stalled it shorted out... when car came back on.. the radio came back on.. thought it was weird... not related I hope...

I also replaced 3 sensors under distributor when I did the icm and cap... also replaced the sensor in the housing where the raidiator hose is. The one that was on it was busted, and thermo gauge would go up and down, and fan was not working.. blow cold, and some hot...any relations to stalling issues? All the relays now are clean and nice, and I assume working, however I have not been able to get the car hot enough to get fan to come back on... Just wanted to put that out there again...
 
Old Jan 17, 2011 | 07:12 PM
  #38  
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When your car stalls out, do the dash lights turn on for the bulb check (check engine, oil, battery, etc) just like when you turn the key to the II position and not try to start the car?

Do you have a volt meter?
 
Old Jan 17, 2011 | 08:00 PM
  #39  
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OOOOOk... Pulled ICM... coated the base of the ICM with the heat sync... She started as normal.. and this time did NOT stall.... AWESOME!! However... After running for 20 mins or so... I shut it off... I then tried to start it back up, and the very first thing I noticed was no CEL light as you turn the key before you crank. Tried to start and she wont turn over now. NO CEL on at all when you turn the key now, and she wont start back up.... wowie, whats next fellas...?
 
Old Jan 17, 2011 | 08:01 PM
  #40  
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Originally Posted by PAhonda
When your car stalls out, do the dash lights turn on for the bulb check (check engine, oil, battery, etc) just like when you turn the key to the II position and not try to start the car?

Do you have a volt meter?
YEs all those lights turn on when she stalls out, and yes.

NO I do not have a volt meter.
 



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