i just bought a 90 accord lx that needed a new clutch. it ran just fine every time i started it before starting the clutch work. after i finished the clutch it started and drove just fine for about an hour (including 20 sitting and idling in the garage). after testing it out around the block a couple of time it just shut off. now it will not start at all, it will crank and crank, but never catches and starts. i have already confirmed i am getting fuel and the relays all work just fine. i have also tested the coil and the ignitor and everything came up fine, but i still have no spark at the spark plugs. this is my first foreign car so i have no idea what i am doing other then the tests i have already tried which i got off of forums. any advice on what i should try now? prefer to test things rather then randomly replace them, but at this point i will try just about anything. thanks in advance.

 

How did you test the coil and igniter?

There are a couple of things that you can check.

Check that the ground that is on or below the thermostat housing is clean and secure.

Does the blk/yel wire going to the distributor or coil have 12V to ground? Also, is your coil outside of the distributor?

Do you have a 12V test light?

 

i tested the coil and igniter following these guidelines

To check the ignition coil, measure the resistance between the +, black/yellow wire, terminal and the -, white/blue wire, terminal of the coil. The resistance should be about 0.6 to 0.8 ohms at 70° F. Then check the resistance between the +, black/yellow wire, terminal and the coil wire terminal. It should be about 12,000 to 19,200 ohms at 70° F.
As for the igniter, if the tachometer is working, then the igniter is okay. Here is the procedure for checking the igniter.

1. Remove the distributor cap, the rotor and the leak cover.
2. Disconnect the black/yellow, white/blue, yellow/green and blue wires from the igniter unit.
3. Turn the ignition switch ON and check for battery voltage between the black/yellow wire and body ground. If there is no battery voltage, check the black/yellow wire between the ignition switch and the igniter unit. If there is battery voltage proceed to step 4.
4. Turn the ignition switch ON and check for battery voltage between the white/blue wire and body ground. If there is no battery voltage check the ignition coil for proper operation or for an open circuit on the white/blue wire between the ignition coil and the igniter unit. If there is battery voltage proceed to step 5.
5. Check the yellow/green wire between the PGM-FI ECU and the igniter unit.
6. Check the blue wire between the tachometer and the igniter unit.
7. If all tests are normal, replace the igniter unit

i will check the thermostat housing right now, and i do have a tester. i will also make sure on the blk/yellow wire right now

 

the ground to the thermostat is clean and i have the 12v on the blk/yel wire. i no that fuel gets up to the rail for sure so as far as i know the fuel pump works. as much as i can tell its a spark issue

 

Is the coil outside of the distributor? How many wires are going to the coil and what are the wire colors?

 

One other question. Does your check engine light stay lit after the two second bulb check?

To check for code(s), you turn the key to the II position and count the flashes on the LED of the ECU. The ECU is under the driver's seat, so pull the seat back. A long flash=10, short =1, so LLLS = 31

 

the check engine light turns off after the two seconds. the coil is inside the dist. and has a blk/yel wire and a all yellow wire. inside there as well is a yel/green wire and another all yellow wire (neither of which go to the coil)

 

The wht/blu wire from the igniter should be the ground side on the coil. Double check that yel wire color.

Check for 12V on the blk/yel wire that goes to the coil with the key in the II position.

If you have a 12V light, disconnect the two leads at the coil. Connect each test light lead to one of the coil leads. What you are doing is connecting the light in place of the coil. Try to start the car and see if the test light flashes. You will need an assistant to do this.

 

i will have to try these things tomorrow. will post back to let you know the status

 

have tried all these tests, still does not start. im at a loss as to what to do next. ive gone over the clutch job a thousand times and cant think of anything i did that would cause this. im starting to wonder if it could be my ecu? anyway that could cause it? any way to test it?