91 Accord LX dies out and feels like choking HELP!
Run the same series of tests described above when no-start condition is present.
If you have a timing light check for spark w/ the timing light attached o one spark lead. No flash means no spark.
The link referred to above has alternate procedure for spark check, but not as definitive.
good luck
If you have a timing light check for spark w/ the timing light attached o one spark lead. No flash means no spark.
The link referred to above has alternate procedure for spark check, but not as definitive.
good luck
The idle should be at 750 rpm with the IACV plugged in.
Here is a DIY on properly setting the base idle:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...e-speed-38734/
Once you do that procedure, listen for the fuel pump to turn on before attempting to start the car. If that noise is missing when it won't start, then something is up with the fuel pump or the power supply to the pump.
You can check your engine codes with a thin paperclip. Open the common DIY threads post on top of the gen tech help forum for a link to the procedure.
Here is a DIY on properly setting the base idle:
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...e-speed-38734/
Once you do that procedure, listen for the fuel pump to turn on before attempting to start the car. If that noise is missing when it won't start, then something is up with the fuel pump or the power supply to the pump.
You can check your engine codes with a thin paperclip. Open the common DIY threads post on top of the gen tech help forum for a link to the procedure.
Also remember that the mark on the tachometer is 500 rpm, and the next little mark is 600. Set the idle so it is between those two marks.
If you have a timing light that reads rpm, use that to set it to 550 rpm.
If you have a timing light that reads rpm, use that to set it to 550 rpm.
Like TexasHonda said, do those checks he listed AFTER it stalls out and dies and you're trying another attempt.
I didn't notice my fuel pump was not going because I had heard it before my car would have a no-start issue so I assumed it was always there. One day I thought about trying to hear it after the no-start was occurring and sure enough it was not there. The point is to do those checks after the no-start issue occurs because things change and if you're doing it after the no-starts I think you're more likely to catch it in the act. Some things can be intermittent.
And PAHonda is right about the tachometer. I always thought that first line was 0 but then I took a close look and realized it's actually 500. I thought my idle was 500 but it was actually 750, right on the mark (700 +/- 50).
I didn't notice my fuel pump was not going because I had heard it before my car would have a no-start issue so I assumed it was always there. One day I thought about trying to hear it after the no-start was occurring and sure enough it was not there. The point is to do those checks after the no-start issue occurs because things change and if you're doing it after the no-starts I think you're more likely to catch it in the act. Some things can be intermittent.
And PAHonda is right about the tachometer. I always thought that first line was 0 but then I took a close look and realized it's actually 500. I thought my idle was 500 but it was actually 750, right on the mark (700 +/- 50).
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
XxTacC
Engine & Internal
3
Aug 18, 2011 04:44 PM
bjorkmae
General Tech Help
16
Jul 4, 2009 12:56 PM




