911 HELPPPP 1993 Honda accord NO FANS AT ALL
Ok fan switch on t stat
T stat
Sensor on water neck front of head
Needle style plug under dizzy
fan timer
^^^^^^^ all replaced
Fans tested both in working
condition
relays verified as good
Fuses good
Fans still won’t turn on.
fans don’t turn on when only condenser fan turns on when jumped at t stat switch connector
junp at relay no cooling fan but can get condenser fan to turn on.
No fans turn on when car is turned off. Have checked and test this at operating temp and when almost over heating!
HELPPPPP PLEASEEEEEEE
T stat
Sensor on water neck front of head
Needle style plug under dizzy
fan timer
^^^^^^^ all replaced
Fans tested both in working
condition
relays verified as good
Fuses good
Fans still won’t turn on.
fans don’t turn on when only condenser fan turns on when jumped at t stat switch connector
junp at relay no cooling fan but can get condenser fan to turn on.
No fans turn on when car is turned off. Have checked and test this at operating temp and when almost over heating!
HELPPPPP PLEASEEEEEEE
Last edited by xwhitrstripex; Jun 25, 2023 at 04:32 PM. Reason: Need help now
Your post is confusing, because I'm not sure exactly what testing you did.
Both fans cool the radiator and a/c condenser. The names are misleading.
The condenser fan has a hockey puck motor and is on the driver's side, the radiator fan has a longer motor and is on the passenger side.
ECT switch A on the thermostat housing will turn on both fans when the coolant reaches 199 °F when the engine is running. Start the car, unplug ECT-A, and jump the connector. Let us know which fan(s) run and don't.
ECT switch B is on the cylinder head and only turns on the radiator fan when the engine is over 223 °F and the engine is not running. Unplug ECT-B when the engine is off and key out of the ignition, jump the electrical connector with a piece of wire, and let us know if the radiator fan runs or not.
Both fans cool the radiator and a/c condenser. The names are misleading.
The condenser fan has a hockey puck motor and is on the driver's side, the radiator fan has a longer motor and is on the passenger side.
ECT switch A on the thermostat housing will turn on both fans when the coolant reaches 199 °F when the engine is running. Start the car, unplug ECT-A, and jump the connector. Let us know which fan(s) run and don't.
ECT switch B is on the cylinder head and only turns on the radiator fan when the engine is over 223 °F and the engine is not running. Unplug ECT-B when the engine is off and key out of the ignition, jump the electrical connector with a piece of wire, and let us know if the radiator fan runs or not.
Your post is confusing, because I'm not sure exactly what testing you did.
Both fans cool the radiator and a/c condenser. The names are misleading.
The condenser fan has a hockey puck motor and is on the driver's side, the radiator fan has a longer motor and is on the passenger side.
ECT switch A on the thermostat housing will turn on both fans when the coolant reaches 199 °F when the engine is running. Start the car, unplug ECT-A, and jump the connector. Let us know which fan(s) run and don't.
ECT switch B is on the cylinder head and only turns on the radiator fan when the engine is over 223 °F and the engine is not running. Unplug ECT-B when the engine is off and key out of the ignition, jump the electrical connector with a piece of wire, and let us know if the radiator fan runs or not.
Both fans cool the radiator and a/c condenser. The names are misleading.
The condenser fan has a hockey puck motor and is on the driver's side, the radiator fan has a longer motor and is on the passenger side.
ECT switch A on the thermostat housing will turn on both fans when the coolant reaches 199 °F when the engine is running. Start the car, unplug ECT-A, and jump the connector. Let us know which fan(s) run and don't.
ECT switch B is on the cylinder head and only turns on the radiator fan when the engine is over 223 °F and the engine is not running. Unplug ECT-B when the engine is off and key out of the ignition, jump the electrical connector with a piece of wire, and let us know if the radiator fan runs or not.
I found a broken connector on my control module/timer and my original one was burnt up. So I’m going to get another one and try again
replaced fans all sensors/switches replaced relay and fan control module still no fans new t stat as well.
Start at the fan relay. Unplug the relay. Two pins should be thicker and possibly better metal on the relay. On the fuse box pins. One of those 2 larger pins should have power. One of the two smaller ones should also have power.
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