92 accord over heating
#1
92 accord over heating
Ok so my car is over heating I changed the thermostat. Filled the radiator with fluid and the reservoir. My temp on the gauge never went above the middle operating temperature. The rpm's started jumping on my gauge and then the car died. I felt the hoses and the top hose leading to the radiator was very hot and the bottom hose with the thermostat in it was cold.
So needless to say I'm kind of at a loss for what it could be. I was thinking it might be the radiator. The car is new to me so I'm not super familiar with when things were last changed on it. I'm assuming I need to flush the radiator and will be doing that immediately. Oh and today when I was testing it. when I opened the radiator cap and it was hot the fluid was gone. So maybe I have a leak or the fluid is just not cycling properly but Idk where the fluid could go? So I'm thinking its not the water pump but not ruling it out. Any help is appreciated.
So needless to say I'm kind of at a loss for what it could be. I was thinking it might be the radiator. The car is new to me so I'm not super familiar with when things were last changed on it. I'm assuming I need to flush the radiator and will be doing that immediately. Oh and today when I was testing it. when I opened the radiator cap and it was hot the fluid was gone. So maybe I have a leak or the fluid is just not cycling properly but Idk where the fluid could go? So I'm thinking its not the water pump but not ruling it out. Any help is appreciated.
#2
You definitely are losing fluid somehow.
I would also just top off the radiator with fluid first. Then rent a radiator pressure tester (most parts stores have them, just call before you go). These kits come with an adapter for your radiator, then a hand air pump to pressurize the system. Your radiator should be able to hold around 15 psi for a long time. If pressure drops, look around for signs of coolant loss.
I would suggest replacing the thermostat with a new one from the honda dealership when you actually drain the system.
You definitely need to find out where the coolant is being lost.
I would also just top off the radiator with fluid first. Then rent a radiator pressure tester (most parts stores have them, just call before you go). These kits come with an adapter for your radiator, then a hand air pump to pressurize the system. Your radiator should be able to hold around 15 psi for a long time. If pressure drops, look around for signs of coolant loss.
I would suggest replacing the thermostat with a new one from the honda dealership when you actually drain the system.
You definitely need to find out where the coolant is being lost.
#4
ok, step one. change the oil or check the dipstick. Oil floats on top of water, so when you drain the oil, all the water will come out first (if there is any). If you only check the dipstick, it would look kinda foamy. if its been really bad, or coolant has been in the oil forever, the oil will look like a mocha.
whats below is all predicated on the fact you dont have an outright leak.
If there is no coolant in the oil, then you may be burning it. youd see this in the exhaust. You know how if you start your car on a cold day the exhaust looks like your breath? gets all foggy and such? when the car is warm the exhaust "steam" should be somewhat minimal. If the car is fully warm and it looks like when you first start it on a super cold day, then you are most likely burning coolant. you should also be able to smell it. it will smell somewhat metallic....like you will know its not just normal exhaust.
If the car has a bad t-stat, which is highly unlikely as in the 15 years ive been doing this, ive never had a DOA t-stat, replace it. For those that say "test it" i dont believe in doing this. its a 8 dollar part that you have to do an idetical amount of work to test or replace. Actually its more work to stand there boiling a t-stat open for 25mins rather than replacing with a Stant t-stat. double check the oerating temp of the t-stat. not just on the box but it will also be scribed on the t-stat itself. If its in Centigrade, just be aware that 25C isnt 25F
also check the temp of the outgoing t-stat and the position it was in, while in the housing. the little nipple should be in the 12'oclock position.
If all that still yeilds an overheating problem, its almost gaurenteed to be a waterpump. this assumes the radiator is doing its job.
whats below is all predicated on the fact you dont have an outright leak.
If there is no coolant in the oil, then you may be burning it. youd see this in the exhaust. You know how if you start your car on a cold day the exhaust looks like your breath? gets all foggy and such? when the car is warm the exhaust "steam" should be somewhat minimal. If the car is fully warm and it looks like when you first start it on a super cold day, then you are most likely burning coolant. you should also be able to smell it. it will smell somewhat metallic....like you will know its not just normal exhaust.
If the car has a bad t-stat, which is highly unlikely as in the 15 years ive been doing this, ive never had a DOA t-stat, replace it. For those that say "test it" i dont believe in doing this. its a 8 dollar part that you have to do an idetical amount of work to test or replace. Actually its more work to stand there boiling a t-stat open for 25mins rather than replacing with a Stant t-stat. double check the oerating temp of the t-stat. not just on the box but it will also be scribed on the t-stat itself. If its in Centigrade, just be aware that 25C isnt 25F
also check the temp of the outgoing t-stat and the position it was in, while in the housing. the little nipple should be in the 12'oclock position.
If all that still yeilds an overheating problem, its almost gaurenteed to be a waterpump. this assumes the radiator is doing its job.
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