I haven't had this problem in a couple of years but it used to be a quarterly issue. Every few months, the car would just cut off while running or not start.

In 2008, I replaced the main relay. No change. Also the ignition coil. No change.
In 2009, I replaced the distributor, the battery, the fuel pump, had the fuel lines replaced, everything cleaned. The mechanic was a Honda expert and he said my car had beaten him. No change
In 2010, I had a shadetree mechanic replace the timing belt. It worked fine until today.

It was raining hard today and I hit a puddle. But it has cut off 4 times today and after waiting anywhere from 30 minutes to a couple of hours, it has re-started.

I believe I have made all the repairs that have ever been suggested. I have read through many threads and not seen any other solutions. Any suggestions ?

 

There's one thing I don't see in your list; and that is the ignition switch. I wouldn't recommend just replacing parts without testing though.

How to replace the ignition switch or troubleshoot (Honda, Acura)

 

So two yrs it's been good until you got a load of water up underneath.
Each time today - a long wait - and it would restart.

I'm bad at electrical problems, but wouldn't a bad ground connection (insufficiently tightened?) show similar symptoms ...
Spray WD-40 (displaces moisture) on all, all the electrical connections and then tighten them again?

 

has redbul stated

electrical switch....start with that

 

Thanks everyone - sorry it I didn't respond back sooner. I had been in a holding pattern for a bit.
@redbull - I did replace the ignition switch - I wrote it was the coil forgetting the coil is in the distributor.

This is what happened: My hubby insisted I send it to Pep Boys because I had a tune-up a month before and at least they would look at it for free (besides the tow fee). Well, they said it was the fuel pump and that would be $600. I just did not believe it was the fuel pump. So I asked them if they checked the main relay. They said they were pretty sure the mechanic did, but he was not there and they could not reach him - they were positive it was the fuel pump. I had my car towed home.

I ordered a main relay from eBay for $30. It did not work. I took my old relay and soldered the two suspect spots I found on a diagram on the net. Mind you, I am no mechanic or electrician - just a regular girl. I put the old relay in and voila ! My car started up and has been running fine so far !

Now I left the case off the old relay while it is plugged in. I have not decided if I should put it back on but perhaps I should since the board is exposed. Any opinions on that ?

I was going to keep an extra relay on hand in case this happens again so I will be prepared. It is a cheap and easy fix.

 

I'd put the cover back on that relay, at least after it works long enough to convince yourself it's really fixed. Cracked solder joints is really common on those; some people just re-melt every joint on the board.

Fix the solder joints on the ebay relay (unless you sent it back) & that can be a spare?

 

So my car ran great for 24 hours and then went back to its old tricks - no start. I went to an auto parts store and bought another brand new relay and the car started, went 20 feet and died.
I had it towed to a shop and they told me it was the distributor (I thought maybe that is true since I noticed corrosion in the spark plug wires leading to the distributor). But after they put the distributor in they still cannot get the car to start ! So now they are stumped.

At this point I feel like junking it and moving on. I don't have unlimited resources to keep pouring into this car. I will give them a few more days to see if they can figure it out but they have had my car since Friday.

 

In this link, there is a troubleshooting flowchart.

Honda Acura ignition (no spark) troubleshooting tutorial - How to

When you turn the ignition to ON (II), does the Check Engine Light go on for about 2 seconds and then turn off? Or does the Check Engine Light not even turn on?