93 Accord Power Loss then dies
#1
03-15-2008, 11:36 AM
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93 Accord Power Loss then dies
Hello People,
My dad has a 93 accord EX-R. Twice his car died, once on red light and would not start and once on highway. First time I got there tried starting, she would crank but would not start. We pushed the car across the light to wait for tow, but she started once I kepttrying. Second time we had to tow herto mechanic shop, waited for next day for him to arrive, but darn car started when he came.
He says cannot help us since car is running, could be number of problems. After talking tosomepeople,I was toldits either fuel pump dying or distributor. Now I don't want to change one when another could be the problem. Any suggestions as to how to go about preventing another stall.
Any help is appreciated from you guys, Thanks.
My dad has a 93 accord EX-R. Twice his car died, once on red light and would not start and once on highway. First time I got there tried starting, she would crank but would not start. We pushed the car across the light to wait for tow, but she started once I kepttrying. Second time we had to tow herto mechanic shop, waited for next day for him to arrive, but darn car started when he came.
He says cannot help us since car is running, could be number of problems. After talking tosomepeople,I was toldits either fuel pump dying or distributor. Now I don't want to change one when another could be the problem. Any suggestions as to how to go about preventing another stall.
Any help is appreciated from you guys, Thanks.
#2
03-15-2008, 12:51 PM
RE: 93 Accord Power Loss then dies
When no-start occurs, listen carefully for the fuel pump to come on when key is turned to ON. It should run for 3 secs and turn off. If no sound at all, fuel pump is not getting power and most likely reason is failed Main Fuel Relay (MFR). MFR is a notorious cause of no-start Hondas. Relay costs about $50 or less from ebay.
If you hear fuel pump engage for 3-secs and turn off, crack the banjo bolt where the fuel supply connects to fuel injector rail. If you get a heavy spray of fuel, you have fuel pressure and problem is almost certainly lack of spark.
Check spark using a timing light hooked to a spark plug lead. If the timing light flashes, you're getting a good spark. If nothing or intermittent, the coil or ignitor is likely cause.
Lack of spark could be coil, ignitor, distributor cap, rotor shorting spark. See DIY section for help in determining coil or ignitor.
good luck
If you hear fuel pump engage for 3-secs and turn off, crack the banjo bolt where the fuel supply connects to fuel injector rail. If you get a heavy spray of fuel, you have fuel pressure and problem is almost certainly lack of spark.
Check spark using a timing light hooked to a spark plug lead. If the timing light flashes, you're getting a good spark. If nothing or intermittent, the coil or ignitor is likely cause.
Lack of spark could be coil, ignitor, distributor cap, rotor shorting spark. See DIY section for help in determining coil or ignitor.
good luck
#3
03-15-2008, 06:14 PM
RE: 93 Accord Power Loss then dies
the 2 most common causes of "stalls when running" are the fuel pump/fuel pressuredropping out, or the ignition switch contacts are bad.
Then coil and ignitor are the next most common problems.
When the ignition switch goes open while driving there will be no warning lights on the dash console.[common stmptom]
It is easy to drop off the lower steering column shroud, then look at the solder joints on the back of the ignition switch for 'frosty' or melted appearance.
When the ignitor or coil drop out the tach will flat line and stay flat when cranking, no bounce or even slight wiggle.
You can also pull out, or loosen,the test port bolt on the fuel rail to check for fuel flow, when cranking.
Have a spare spark plug to put into a plug wire and lay on the valve cover to check for spark to the cylinders.
But do the spark check BEFORE the fuel flow check
Then coil and ignitor are the next most common problems.
When the ignition switch goes open while driving there will be no warning lights on the dash console.[common stmptom]
It is easy to drop off the lower steering column shroud, then look at the solder joints on the back of the ignition switch for 'frosty' or melted appearance.
When the ignitor or coil drop out the tach will flat line and stay flat when cranking, no bounce or even slight wiggle.
You can also pull out, or loosen,the test port bolt on the fuel rail to check for fuel flow, when cranking.
Have a spare spark plug to put into a plug wire and lay on the valve cover to check for spark to the cylinders.
But do the spark check BEFORE the fuel flow check
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