To further explain: The following is Honda’s narrative regarding Opens and Shorts: "Open" and "short" are common electrical terms. An open is a break in a wire or at a connection. A short is an accidental connection of a wire to ground or to another wire. In simple electronics, this usually means something won't work at all. With complex electronics (such as with ECMs, PCM, control modules), this can sometimes mean something works, but not the way it's supposed to.

As I have previously mentioned, you probably have a short.

 

Redbull-

I did exactly as you said.

I went under the glove box section of the dash and found the Radiator Fan Control Module. I can see the bottom the module box. However, the wire connector is buried very high up and not visible. The space is extremely tight. I would need to remove the glove box for access. It seems difficult to remove and I can’t figure out how to do it. When down there I spent a lot of time looking for any type of melted wires. I saw none.

I also closely examined the under dash fuse box. I looked everywhere and did not see any melted wires. I opened the fuse panel and I pulled fuse #8. All fuses in this box were marked with numbers. Upon removal of #8:

• KEY OUT: Fan on, 2 lights on
• ENGINE RUNNING: Fan on, 2 lights on.
  
  There was absolutely no difference.
  
  I then opened the under hood fuse box. None of these fuses and relays had numbers. I removed the Condenser Fan (15A) fuse:
• KEY OUT: No fan, no 2 green lights
• ENGINE RUNNING: Fan on, 2 green lights on.
  
  This is the way the car normally was before it broke. I left the fuse out for now as I do not want the battery to get run down.
  
  Other areas that interest me in this fuse box are, Heater Blower (40A), Cooling Fan Relay, and Cooling Fan (20A).
  
  One other thing is that this all started because the mechanic I was told wanted to see if the cooling fan sensors were working. I saw that he had spliced a wire located at the very bottom of the radiator cooling fan (the left side when standing in front of car). A jumper wire (which I saw was left behind) was run I believe from this splice to I suspect the under hood fuse box. Then it stopped. If I were the mechanic I assume he would have attached the wire to Cooling Fan (20A) fuse. And perhaps the Condenser Fan (15A) fuse. This way he could run both of the fans. So, I believe by doing this that this must be where the problem originally occurred and caused this issue.
  
  Any further comments would be welcome…

 

Let me think about this to see if there may be another area the short has occurred. It may very well be what the mechanic did that cause this issue. Something is backfeeding power.

Did you try unplugging the connector to the radiator fan control module to rule out that module?

 

It is impossible to unplug the wire to the radiator fan control module without removing the glove box. I went under 3x yesterday.Everything is jammed in there so tight. Please give it some thought. I'll keep playing around with it.

 

Here are the instructions to remove the glove box. You probably only need to do steps 1-3. There is a sticky at the top of this forum, "Common DIY and Other Info. Threads" where you can find links to download the service manual.

 

Okay, I found two more areas (other than the radiator fan control module) where the short may be, where a Blk/Yel wire from Fuse #8 may come near the White wire from Fuse #34.

• It could be a shorted A/C compressor clutch relay or the wiring there.
• It could be a short in the wiring at connector C309, a 12P brown connector (located at the interior fuse/relay box).

My best guess will be the A/C compressor clutch relay or wiring there. Unplug that connector for the A/C compressor clutch relay and put No. 34 fuse back in the under-hood fuse box. See what happens and report back.

 

Please see thread #20. I already went through this. With no fuses removed, I unplugged each relay one at a time. There was no change at all. I originally suspected it may be the problem and even bought a new relay (they are both MITSUBA RC-2201). It did nothing. I am happy to go back and check again. Will also inspect wiring again.

I will also take another look at the spot in the image above the under dash blower fan relay. It is way up there and the clutch pedal blocks that area.

Will report back. Keep thinking. And thank you.

 

From a comparison of the different circuit diagrams, those 3 areas are the only areas I see in the diagrams where the power wires may come near each other.

The other possibility may be due to the mechanic's wire splicing.

 

I took another close look at everything again. Both inside and under hood. Notes:

- When standing in front of car on passenger side, solid blue wire on cooling fan was spliced. This is 1 of 2 wires. I think the other was wire was solid black.

- My inspection included the 2 under hood A/C relays and all wiring on side of radiator. All was okay. I was wondering if it may be possible if both A/C relays have perhaps failed? Maybe that is why when I unplug each one at a time nothing happens. But, I also have 1 new relay that I bought and I switched that out and nothing happens either.

- I could be wrong, but in 93. LEFT KICK PANEL image you posted, it sort of appears like the 1 wire (C308 2-BRN) seems kind of melted inside the clip. I can see bare wire inside the clip and a tiny dot which could be melted wiring. The clutch pedal and bracket are directly in the way and virtually impossible to see. I tried to unclip the wire to see more but finding it difficult to reach to unclip. Will keep working on this.

 

A1: The blue wire is to supply power (+) for the radiator fan motor. This should not be the cause of issue.

A2: If it was a shorted A/C compressor clutch relay, when you unplugged it, the blower fan and heater control panel lighting should have stopped. So, this relay is probably not the issue.

A3: C308 looks to be the harness connector related to the windshield washer motor wiring. Probably not related to the blower motor, heater control panel issue.

Have you had a chance to remove the glove box door to check the radiator fan control module?