94 Accord EX ABS now operates (improperly) after light was on for years
Thanks for your clarifying question. Sorry for not being clear about this, but the bulb definitely works. I see it check itself every time I start the car. The indicator light stays on if I unplug any of the ABS connectors. Also, I used the bulb pulse sequence to decode the problems stored in the ABS memory registers.
My present theory is that there could have been significant vibrations induced in the shop when my exhaust pipe was cut off and then replaced, and this moved around some dirt near the sensor. Maybe that removed a short, and now the control unit does not detect sufficient error from the sensor. The resistance across the sensor is definitely too high (assuming I was making good contact to the connector), but I don't know if the sensor is broken or just dirty as others have suggested. I can think of no other explanation that could link the exhaust system to the ABS.
My present theory is that there could have been significant vibrations induced in the shop when my exhaust pipe was cut off and then replaced, and this moved around some dirt near the sensor. Maybe that removed a short, and now the control unit does not detect sufficient error from the sensor. The resistance across the sensor is definitely too high (assuming I was making good contact to the connector), but I don't know if the sensor is broken or just dirty as others have suggested. I can think of no other explanation that could link the exhaust system to the ABS.
Are you sure the ABS unit is causing this issue. I've re-read your first post, it "appears" that the light is not coming on.
Turn the key to on - bulb check should cause the ABS, CEL, SRS (?) to come on...does the ABS bulb work.
Could be way off here, not the first time. I'm going with the bulb has finally burned out and you are chasing a regular brake issue, rather than the ABS has all of the sudden fixed its self and now giving issues........
Turn the key to on - bulb check should cause the ABS, CEL, SRS (?) to come on...does the ABS bulb work.
Could be way off here, not the first time. I'm going with the bulb has finally burned out and you are chasing a regular brake issue, rather than the ABS has all of the sudden fixed its self and now giving issues........
yea and IF I could read better, I would have seen that in post #3....so, let me see if I can help a little, using the 95 where I have replaced the right/pass sensor before.
Pull the intake tube. Clamp where it meets the TB, two (?) small hoses and then work it off the air filter box. Once that is out of the way you should be good to go.
For the gap cleaning, support the car..proper. Pull the tire, using cleaner, suggest brake, spray and clean the "tone" ring on the CV shaft, neutral on trans will help spinning the cv shaft. Also inspect the tone ring for damage. Then with a good rag, gently clean the "gap" between the sensor and the ring...a few sprays in between will help.
Pull the intake tube. Clamp where it meets the TB, two (?) small hoses and then work it off the air filter box. Once that is out of the way you should be good to go.
For the gap cleaning, support the car..proper. Pull the tire, using cleaner, suggest brake, spray and clean the "tone" ring on the CV shaft, neutral on trans will help spinning the cv shaft. Also inspect the tone ring for damage. Then with a good rag, gently clean the "gap" between the sensor and the ring...a few sprays in between will help.
Thanks for the advice.
How important is it to use specialty brake cleaner? Are readily-available alternatives (like water) not effective? I have no problem going to a store and buying some - I just don't want to waste a can of chemicals by using it once and never again.
I tried to inspect the "tone" ring last time (also referred to as "toothed sensor ring" or "pulser gear"?). I wiped it down a little while turning the wheel with the trans in neutral. It was a bit awkward to inspect it, so I can probably do it better if I figure out a better position and lighting. I can say that the ring is likely rusted a bit, but I didn't notice any obvious cracks.
Overall, it sounds like I don't need to remove the sensor, so I am confident in trying this again. After removing the intake tube, I can easily monitor the resistance of the sensor after cleaning the cable connector, ring and sensor. Hopefully, this will solve the issue. Thanks again for you time/advice.
How important is it to use specialty brake cleaner? Are readily-available alternatives (like water) not effective? I have no problem going to a store and buying some - I just don't want to waste a can of chemicals by using it once and never again.
I tried to inspect the "tone" ring last time (also referred to as "toothed sensor ring" or "pulser gear"?). I wiped it down a little while turning the wheel with the trans in neutral. It was a bit awkward to inspect it, so I can probably do it better if I figure out a better position and lighting. I can say that the ring is likely rusted a bit, but I didn't notice any obvious cracks.
Overall, it sounds like I don't need to remove the sensor, so I am confident in trying this again. After removing the intake tube, I can easily monitor the resistance of the sensor after cleaning the cable connector, ring and sensor. Hopefully, this will solve the issue. Thanks again for you time/advice.
yea and IF I could read better, I would have seen that in post #3....so, let me see if I can help a little, using the 95 where I have replaced the right/pass sensor before.
Pull the intake tube. Clamp where it meets the TB, two (?) small hoses and then work it off the air filter box. Once that is out of the way you should be good to go.
For the gap cleaning, support the car..proper. Pull the tire, using cleaner, suggest brake, spray and clean the "tone" ring on the CV shaft, neutral on trans will help spinning the cv shaft. Also inspect the tone ring for damage. Then with a good rag, gently clean the "gap" between the sensor and the ring...a few sprays in between will help.
Pull the intake tube. Clamp where it meets the TB, two (?) small hoses and then work it off the air filter box. Once that is out of the way you should be good to go.
For the gap cleaning, support the car..proper. Pull the tire, using cleaner, suggest brake, spray and clean the "tone" ring on the CV shaft, neutral on trans will help spinning the cv shaft. Also inspect the tone ring for damage. Then with a good rag, gently clean the "gap" between the sensor and the ring...a few sprays in between will help.
I've run into this issue as well with my 96. When I bought it last year the ABS light was on and didn't really feel like spending hundreds of $$ to get a new ABS pump, so I just left it alone. But after some time, the light went off and it hasn't come back on yet.
Again, I was able to get a good rag with brake cleaner on it between the sensor and ring, more towards the sensor, and clean the drivers side....the pass was bad, readings, and had to be replaced...but that is my personal experience..
I have finally resolved this issue. None of my attempts to clean the sensor were successful, but I eventually found a used right, front '94 Honda Accord ABS sensor at a salvage yard for $50. I checked the resistance across the sensor, and it was 700 ohms like the spec, so I took a chance. I asked my mechanic to swap it in for the original sensor when I got my oil changed. Afterwards, I reconnected the cable to my ABS computer, and the issue seems resolved. The ABS light stays off, and the system does not falsely engage. Now I just need to pop the panel back in to cover the ABS computer.
The mechanic gave me the original sensor. There is no obvious debris or tears, and after cleaning the sensor and the contacts, the resistance still stays above 4000 ohms. So, I still don't know how this sensor failed or why my ABS computer started thinking the sensor was ok, but at least my ABS is working again. Thanks again for your help.
The mechanic gave me the original sensor. There is no obvious debris or tears, and after cleaning the sensor and the contacts, the resistance still stays above 4000 ohms. So, I still don't know how this sensor failed or why my ABS computer started thinking the sensor was ok, but at least my ABS is working again. Thanks again for your help.
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