Copy and paste the link below into your browser to get the pdf of the TSB on how to replace that o-ring. It is definitely worth a try.

driveaccord.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=262&d=1068999889

 

Thanks to both of you for all the help ...

@ TexasHonda

Ya, it would take you 20 minutes to pull it ... more like many hours for me. All those hard-lines look like hard work to me (I've never done any brake work before). But your info was what I needed to know.

@ PAHonda

I don't know how you find all these docs, but you are doing a great job! That one also includes a good description of the bleeding. Maybe the picture I posted is not as good as I thought it was, but my accumulator looks ruptured/damaged to me.

I see what you guys are saying. Go buy a used one, install it, see if it works. If not, un-install it, maybe make a good whole one from the 2 I have now ... or maybe take it back and get another. I don't know ... it just seems like a lot of work to me. I like using new parts. I would go to the junk yard for a door handle or something (maybe even a computer module) but this thing seems like a different animal to me.

Please don't think your posts are not helpful because they are. I still have the 2004 v6 which I plan to have for a long time still and we are getting ready to buy an Acura SH-AWD SUV or a nice Pilot. I like working on cars and hope to get better at it as I gain some experience.

 

The reason I suggest the junkyard is that my 95 EX had 240K miles when I sold it and it still had the original abs modulator in it.

With that corrosion in your picture, you accumulator o-ring may have been slowly leaking for a while to cause that to happen.

If you go to a U-Pull-It junkyard, you can look at the ABS modulators for signs of leaking like yours. I would consider replacing the o-ring before installing the replacement unit, since you will have it removed.

There is another TSB out there about tightening some plugs on the unit. This is more for a leaking abs unit, but your fluid level was good.

 

Removing the modulator is easy. Here's the recipe.

1) release the tubing guides that constrain the tubings and release electrical connections
2) Loosen/release the tubing nuts (6?)
3) Release the two end bolts retaining the modulator to body
4) Remove the modulator.

I agree w/ PA on just replacing oring on your modulator to start. If that doesn't work, then try swapping modulators.

I had to splice two modulators together to fix my daughter's Acura CL. Here's had leaking internal valves and my $25 modulator had frozen motor. Her motor and used modulator were still working fine when she sold the car.

As PA pointed out, a good one will last life of vehicle.

good luck