94 accord overheating :( help!
#31
01-23-2011, 09:30 PM
That could be an indication the gauge is not working. The sender may be okay.
#32
01-24-2011, 01:14 AM
ok well i did take my car to get smogged and the idiot who smogged it.saw it overheating and went on with the check >=/ and ever since that i have been having this problem.and also you did mention that my gauge should go down to cold if i disconnect the single pin sensor correct? i did that and my gauge stayed in place a quarter way up from cold to hot.(1/4 way up) it did not do as you stated...you mentioned it should go down to cold. since that didnt happen.is my sensor not working properly also?
#33
01-24-2011, 01:25 AM
#34
01-24-2011, 01:36 AM
the ignition is turned to on.eventhough the engine itself isnt on.when i remove the key from the ignition.it does go all the way down to cold.and when i go all the way back with the key it does go down to cold.but when i turn it the 1st time the gauge goes up.and then the 2nd turn(to start the car) of course it stays at where it was(the gauge) and slowly starts moving up.
#35
01-24-2011, 02:40 AM
Lets get a couple of items straight.
The sending unit is the sensor that is bolted into the cylinder head. It has a one-wire connector going to it.
When you unplug the wire, the gauge inside of your car should stay at cold. If the gauge still moves up, then something other than the sending unit (sensor) is causing gauge inside of the car to move up, because the sensor is unplugged.
The problem could be the gauge in the car, or the wire going from the sensor to the gauge.
The only way to rule out the wire is to use a volt meter to see if the wire going from the sensor to the gauge is somehow grounded. You have to do this removing the gauge cluster to unplug both ends of the wire. We can give you more details if you want to test this wire.
If you are going to remove the cluster, you might as well have a replacement temperature gauge ready. You should be able to pick one up from junkyard for <$50. You can use a site like car-part.com to search junkyards by distance. A 94-97 temperature gauge will work on your car. Ebay is another source for parts. A new one will cost $90-$125 and is not worth the cost IMO. You may be able to repair the solder on the temperature gauge if you have a soldering iron, if the wire is not the problem.
FYI, a faulty gauge in your car will not change the engine performance or prevent the cooling fans from turning on. That gauge is only there to tell you the coolant temperature.
The sending unit is the sensor that is bolted into the cylinder head. It has a one-wire connector going to it.
When you unplug the wire, the gauge inside of your car should stay at cold. If the gauge still moves up, then something other than the sending unit (sensor) is causing gauge inside of the car to move up, because the sensor is unplugged.
The problem could be the gauge in the car, or the wire going from the sensor to the gauge.
The only way to rule out the wire is to use a volt meter to see if the wire going from the sensor to the gauge is somehow grounded. You have to do this removing the gauge cluster to unplug both ends of the wire. We can give you more details if you want to test this wire.
If you are going to remove the cluster, you might as well have a replacement temperature gauge ready. You should be able to pick one up from junkyard for <$50. You can use a site like car-part.com to search junkyards by distance. A 94-97 temperature gauge will work on your car. Ebay is another source for parts. A new one will cost $90-$125 and is not worth the cost IMO. You may be able to repair the solder on the temperature gauge if you have a soldering iron, if the wire is not the problem.
FYI, a faulty gauge in your car will not change the engine performance or prevent the cooling fans from turning on. That gauge is only there to tell you the coolant temperature.
#36
01-24-2011, 08:14 AM
PA has the right story.
If the gauge sits at mid-scale when the key is turned OFF, then it's definitely a bad gauge. But that's not what happens...
Unplug both ends of the wire & check whether there's any continuity to ground - there shouldn't be.
If the gauge sits at mid-scale when the key is turned OFF, then it's definitely a bad gauge. But that's not what happens...
Unplug both ends of the wire & check whether there's any continuity to ground - there shouldn't be.
#37
01-24-2011, 11:49 AM
1st position is when you barely enter the key into the ignition
2nd position is when the instruments on your dash light up
3rd position is when your engine is already on
4th position is when you are getting your car to start
#38
01-26-2011, 05:45 PM
i feel so dumb. Sorry bout that.i checked today and yes my gauge goes all the way down to cold when i unplug the single pin sensor.(i was checking the wrong sensor at 1st but now i am 100% sure it is the right sensor)so now my gauge did go all the way down to cold when i unplugged it.and went up to hot when i grounded it...also i did turn my ignition to 1st position(instruments on my dash were off) to turn it completely off before it went all the way up.so what would it be now?
#39
01-26-2011, 05:46 PM
lets get a couple of items straight.
The sending unit is the sensor that is bolted into the cylinder head. It has a one-wire connector going to it.
When you unplug the wire, the gauge inside of your car should stay at cold. If the gauge still moves up, then something other than the sending unit (sensor) is causing gauge inside of the car to move up, because the sensor is unplugged.
The problem could be the gauge in the car, or the wire going from the sensor to the gauge.
The only way to rule out the wire is to use a volt meter to see if the wire going from the sensor to the gauge is somehow grounded. You have to do this removing the gauge cluster to unplug both ends of the wire. We can give you more details if you want to test this wire.
If you are going to remove the cluster, you might as well have a replacement temperature gauge ready. You should be able to pick one up from junkyard for <$50. You can use a site like car-part.com to search junkyards by distance. A 94-97 temperature gauge will work on your car. Ebay is another source for parts. A new one will cost $90-$125 and is not worth the cost imo. You may be able to repair the solder on the temperature gauge if you have a soldering iron, if the wire is not the problem.
Fyi, a faulty gauge in your car will not change the engine performance or prevent the cooling fans from turning on. That gauge is only there to tell you the coolant temperature.
The sending unit is the sensor that is bolted into the cylinder head. It has a one-wire connector going to it.
When you unplug the wire, the gauge inside of your car should stay at cold. If the gauge still moves up, then something other than the sending unit (sensor) is causing gauge inside of the car to move up, because the sensor is unplugged.
The problem could be the gauge in the car, or the wire going from the sensor to the gauge.
The only way to rule out the wire is to use a volt meter to see if the wire going from the sensor to the gauge is somehow grounded. You have to do this removing the gauge cluster to unplug both ends of the wire. We can give you more details if you want to test this wire.
If you are going to remove the cluster, you might as well have a replacement temperature gauge ready. You should be able to pick one up from junkyard for <$50. You can use a site like car-part.com to search junkyards by distance. A 94-97 temperature gauge will work on your car. Ebay is another source for parts. A new one will cost $90-$125 and is not worth the cost imo. You may be able to repair the solder on the temperature gauge if you have a soldering iron, if the wire is not the problem.
Fyi, a faulty gauge in your car will not change the engine performance or prevent the cooling fans from turning on. That gauge is only there to tell you the coolant temperature.
#40
01-26-2011, 06:56 PM
A shop manual should have values of electrical resistance for that 1-wire sensor at different temperatures. Check it with an ohm-meter when it's cold. If you're ambitious, put it in a pot of hot water along with a thermometer, & check it at a couple different temperatures.
I'm GUESSING the sender is bad.
I'm GUESSING the sender is bad.