94 accord overheating :( help!
#11
01-21-2011, 08:05 PM
well my mind is set that one of the sensors has gone bad because i dont even turn the car on yet when my dash says that it is on normal temperature(half way up) and that shouldnt be happening at all for what i have heard.correct?
#12
01-21-2011, 08:18 PM
Well, the thing is, the ECT sender for the gauge is not the switch to trigger the fans. You may have more than one problem.
Last edited by redbull-1; 01-21-2011 at 08:26 PM.
#14
01-21-2011, 11:16 PM
As Jim said, you have 4 sensors on the car.
You want to jump the one the thermostat housing that has the green plug, then start the car. Both fans should run.
If not, turn off the car, unplug the electrical connector to the fan that is not working, start the car again. Measure voltage across the connector going to the passenger side fan. If you have 12V, then the fan motor is bad.
The sending unit has the one wire connector, and it only sends a signal to the gauge that you see in your dash. It sounds like something is either up with the gauge or the wiring. If you tough that red wire to ground and turn the key to the II position, the temperature gauge should start to go up. Turn off the key before the gauge gets past the red, as you can damage the needle.
The ECT only sends the coolant temperature to the ECU, so the ECU can adjust air/fuel ratio, idle, etc. The only reason to mess with this is if you got a check engine code for that sensor. The ECT sensor is next to sending unit.
The fourth sensor also has a green plug and is on the front of the engine block. It will turn on both fans when the coolant reaches a set temperature when the engine is turned off.
You want to jump the one the thermostat housing that has the green plug, then start the car. Both fans should run.
If not, turn off the car, unplug the electrical connector to the fan that is not working, start the car again. Measure voltage across the connector going to the passenger side fan. If you have 12V, then the fan motor is bad.
The sending unit has the one wire connector, and it only sends a signal to the gauge that you see in your dash. It sounds like something is either up with the gauge or the wiring. If you tough that red wire to ground and turn the key to the II position, the temperature gauge should start to go up. Turn off the key before the gauge gets past the red, as you can damage the needle.
The ECT only sends the coolant temperature to the ECU, so the ECU can adjust air/fuel ratio, idle, etc. The only reason to mess with this is if you got a check engine code for that sensor. The ECT sensor is next to sending unit.
The fourth sensor also has a green plug and is on the front of the engine block. It will turn on both fans when the coolant reaches a set temperature when the engine is turned off.
#15
01-22-2011, 08:57 AM
Turn AC and ignition switch to On. Both fans should run, but you have one fan likely out.
First try thumping the fan motor firmly w/ a stick. If it comes on, you know the brushes are worn and fan motor must be replaced.
If still dead, suggest temporarily swapping the radiator relay(underhood fuse box) w/ an identical neighbor relay and see if radiator fan comes on. If not the fan motor is likely dead.
Only way to be certain is to pull the radiator fan motor connector and check for 12V at connector when fan should be running (see above). However the fan connector is a PIA to reach, so above may be a alternative.
good luck
First try thumping the fan motor firmly w/ a stick. If it comes on, you know the brushes are worn and fan motor must be replaced.
If still dead, suggest temporarily swapping the radiator relay(underhood fuse box) w/ an identical neighbor relay and see if radiator fan comes on. If not the fan motor is likely dead.
Only way to be certain is to pull the radiator fan motor connector and check for 12V at connector when fan should be running (see above). However the fan connector is a PIA to reach, so above may be a alternative.
good luck
#16
01-22-2011, 12:46 PM
Im also working on the driverside fan, so this thread is assisting me in diagnosing that also, thanks!
As for your car, and ill need some answers on this from these knowlegable boys here... Is it possible that the thermo gauge is acting up at the dash?? I do see many of them pulled out of the 90-93 hondas at the scrap yard...
If its stuck in the middle BEFORE you even start the car, and its been sitting all night, then maybe the normal operating range brings it up to the HOT.. rather than starting at cold, and warming up to middle, its starting in middle and warming up to hot... make sense??
You did say no symptoms of overheating right??
Just a thought..
As for your car, and ill need some answers on this from these knowlegable boys here... Is it possible that the thermo gauge is acting up at the dash?? I do see many of them pulled out of the 90-93 hondas at the scrap yard...
If its stuck in the middle BEFORE you even start the car, and its been sitting all night, then maybe the normal operating range brings it up to the HOT.. rather than starting at cold, and warming up to middle, its starting in middle and warming up to hot... make sense??
You did say no symptoms of overheating right??
Just a thought..
#17
01-22-2011, 05:23 PM
im also working on the driverside fan, so this thread is assisting me in diagnosing that also, thanks!
As for your car, and ill need some answers on this from these knowlegable boys here... Is it possible that the thermo gauge is acting up at the dash?? I do see many of them pulled out of the 90-93 hondas at the scrap yard...
If its stuck in the middle before you even start the car, and its been sitting all night, then maybe the normal operating range brings it up to the hot.. Rather than starting at cold, and warming up to middle, its starting in middle and warming up to hot... Make sense??
You did say no symptoms of overheating right??
Just a thought..
As for your car, and ill need some answers on this from these knowlegable boys here... Is it possible that the thermo gauge is acting up at the dash?? I do see many of them pulled out of the 90-93 hondas at the scrap yard...
If its stuck in the middle before you even start the car, and its been sitting all night, then maybe the normal operating range brings it up to the hot.. Rather than starting at cold, and warming up to middle, its starting in middle and warming up to hot... Make sense??
You did say no symptoms of overheating right??
Just a thought..
#18
01-22-2011, 05:25 PM
.so i checked today and my fan is out. I will be replacing the right side fan(if you are looking at the car from the driver seats). Also i saw that a ihad the ecu fuse under the hood out. Im not quite sure if it was out before.i replaced it.but my car wont start because i was listening to music as i checked if the fan was working or not and sadly the battery died.i will charge it in a bit and it should strt no problem.
#19
01-22-2011, 05:28 PM
there's 4 things that look like temperature sensors - make sure you're dealing with the correct ones.
End of the cylinder head, kinda below the distributor there's 2 of em.
Water temperature sensor (for the ecm) has a plastic plug with 2 wires.
Temperature sender (for the dashboard gauge) has 1 wire. Unplug the single-wire and the gauge should go to cold.
Then there's 2 fan switches at the radiator hoses.
Follow the lower radiator hose back to the thermostat housing (below the throttlebody). The 2-wire switch back there is responsible for switching both fans while the engine is on. Unplug that & jumper the wire with a paperclip. Turn the key on (engine doesn't actually need to be running) - both fans should run.
The last one (at the upper radiator hose nozzle in the head) is responsible for switching one fan after you turn off the engine. Immediately after turning off the key, jumper that wire with a paperclip and one fan should run. There's a timer to turn it off after something like 20 minutes, even if you leave the jumper connected.
Now that's how it's supposed to work. Your post sounds like one of your fans doesn't work. Maybe a relay, fuse, or bad wiring? You can check for a bad motor by supplying batter power directly with a couple wires from battery to motor.
End of the cylinder head, kinda below the distributor there's 2 of em.
Water temperature sensor (for the ecm) has a plastic plug with 2 wires.
Temperature sender (for the dashboard gauge) has 1 wire. Unplug the single-wire and the gauge should go to cold.
Then there's 2 fan switches at the radiator hoses.
Follow the lower radiator hose back to the thermostat housing (below the throttlebody). The 2-wire switch back there is responsible for switching both fans while the engine is on. Unplug that & jumper the wire with a paperclip. Turn the key on (engine doesn't actually need to be running) - both fans should run.
The last one (at the upper radiator hose nozzle in the head) is responsible for switching one fan after you turn off the engine. Immediately after turning off the key, jumper that wire with a paperclip and one fan should run. There's a timer to turn it off after something like 20 minutes, even if you leave the jumper connected.
Now that's how it's supposed to work. Your post sounds like one of your fans doesn't work. Maybe a relay, fuse, or bad wiring? You can check for a bad motor by supplying batter power directly with a couple wires from battery to motor.
#20
01-22-2011, 05:47 PM
There is probably something up with the wiring or the gauge itself. The connection to the gauge cluster could be loose or have a bad connection.
Either way, you will probably have to remove the cluster to test that wire sending the signal to the temperature guage. Do you have a volt meter?
Either way, you will probably have to remove the cluster to test that wire sending the signal to the temperature guage. Do you have a volt meter?