A few months ago my 94 accord puked up it's original engine. A trip to the local pull-a-part scored me a rebuildable core. New rings, bearings, gaskets, valve job, and a new timing belt put everything back into working order, but the car just wont run right for anything.

Before we go there, it's timed perfectly and all the marks line up exactly where they're supposed to be. It has excellent compression in all 4 holes, and it spins freely. Also, the valves have been adjusted.

When I start it, it fires right up and purrs like a kitten. But when I drive it, it sputters and is basically gutless below 2000-2500 rpm. I've advanced the distributor as far as it can go, and while it did offer some improvement, it still chugs and strains.

Once the revs go north of 2000 rpm's, it suddenly comes alive in a big way. Runs like a bat out of hell, which makes me think I've got too much initial timing dialed in and there's some issue inside the dizzy with the advance mechanism.

For what it's worth, the cap, rotor, and wires are the same ones that were on the original engine when it popped a piston, but it worked perfectly before. Also, while the car was apart, the distributor sat on a shelf in the garage on it's cap for about 3 months as this was a weekend project.

Someone else has already told me it sounds like a vacuum leak, but it's not acting like that. At idle it runs as smooth as can be, and I've tried the old trick of spraying a can of either around the intake and listening for rpm changes. You really have to visualize what happens once it reaches that 2000+ point. Without touching the clutch or anything, just holding the gas pedal to the floor, once you cross that rpm threshold, it will literally go from chugging,sputtering gutless pig to traction limited pocket rocket.

I'm totally confused. If anyone can throw me a bone or point me in a new direction, I'd be greatful.

 

Rebuildable core from same year? Camshaft been ground different from stock? One or the other engines has that 2-stage intake manifold?

I'm just throwing out silly ideas for anything that might be different...

 

There is no advance mechanism; the ECU is in charge of ignition timing.

So, great idle, and great >2K rpm. Cam timing correct?

 

Yes, check the timing. Jump the service connector and get the timing light out and be sure it set properly.

Once that is done and set properly. If you are still having the issue......try removing the vac line from the egr valve, at idle do you have vac on that line? Just wondering if a vac line got "switched" during the change.

 

There are some electrical connectors that are identical that can get switched. Check the MAP and TPS. Also the IACV and the IAT. There is also a connector that plugs into the injector resistor box that has an identical component nearby.

You can get a shop manual for a 94 accord. Go to the common diy thread on top of the gen tech help forum. Open link to online shop manuals, the hondatech link has a 94 shop manual.

When you rebuilt the engine, did you have the cylinder head milled, so it is flat? Did you have it checked for leaks?

 

The OP's car is a 94, where you can do an advance/retard adjustment for the ignition timing at the distributor.

 

In reference to:

 

This is from the service manual.

 

Redbull's page is for setting the base timing.
Roader is saying there's no advance/retard mechanism inside the distributor.
Both statements are true.

The ECU manages the spark timing by using the reference timing signals coming from the distributor. Those reference signals don't change, they don't advance with RPM or load. The ECU does that part with it's software.