If you're measuring the correct wire at the rear connector ( Blk/Yel wire) and only 1.3V at rear, the main fuel relay is likely the fault. Again, be sure the MFR is closed and has not opened after the 2-3 second run time. I would check the Blk/yel wire at the relay connector. You will need to backprobe or penetrate insulation Blk/Yel wire coating to test to be sure it's not a short to ground (very unlikely at this would simply blow a fuse).

It is difficult to see the soldering faults. Most simply remove old solder w/ solder-sucker and reflow w/ new solder. All joints should be repaired.

good luck

 

did a few tests from the shop manual and it seems like its the main fuel relay. now the question is - where do i get it? cause i am having a hell of a time finding one. Anyone have a honda part #? It seems the only place i can find one is on ebay, but i wanna pick one up tomorrow so i drive me car this weekend to go out of town.

 

I've never soldered before and do not have the tools. is it worth buying the tools and doing it or just buying a new one??

I attached the 3 sheets from the shop manual that i used:

- The Fuel Pump Test - there was no voltage - so i proceeded to the main relay troubleshoot
- The Main Relay Trouble Shoot failed the first question with an unknown way to preceed on the recommendation, passed the 2nd question, failed the 3rd question with a good fuse and unknown on the recommendation, and failed the 4th question with a good fuse and unknown on the recommendation
- The Main Relay Test - failed #2

 

23-15 shows the ground location for G101. Make sure that connection is clean and secure.

You can buy the main fuel relay for ~$60 from places like hondapartsdeals [dot] com.

 

i'm not following - 23-15?? G101??

i saw the honda parts dealers online, but i'd like to buy the part local tomorrow.
Anyone have info on the part from a dealer?

 

The first test that failed is for continuity to ground on pin three. The resolution is to repair that connection from the relay to ground. G101 is the label for the ground location. It is on page 23-15 in that shop manual that you posted pictures from.

The dealership part number for your Main Relay is the number that the honda parts deals site has.

I just want to make sure that you did the continuity test properly. Using your volt meter, either use the resistance reading or continuity reading on it. The ohms from pin 3 to a good ground point should be zero or the continuity test on my meter will beep if the circuit is continuous.

 

Did you first do the checks to the main relay itself, on the right side of page 11-95?

The checks on page 11-96 are actually checking the car's wiring, not the actual relay. You did those checks with the relay unplugged, & you're measuring into the wiring harness (not the relay), right?

 

You determined to have a open Black wire between pin 3 and ground. Track the wire from pin 3 to the manifold. It's either the relay socket end (bad solder) or manifold end (bad or corroded connection).

 

Forgot to mention, use the meter on a low ohms scale (x1 or x10) or a low range if it's digital. If you use auto range you may get false readings. A good ground connection will show a 0 or less that 1 ohm reading, since you're seeing the resistance of the wire. But for that length of wire, from the dash to the intake manifold you should see 0.

 

PAHonda - i checked out page 23-15 and say what you were talking about - so, you're saying i need to make sure i have a good ground on the G101?? I also am not a pro at electronics so i could have had it on the wrong setting - i ended up using the 200dcv setting.

Jim Blake - i checked the main relay, but not until the very last (after i took it back out) i listed them in the order i tested them above. Yes, i had the relay unplugged and was checking the wiring harness.

draser - you mentioned the manifold...what is the wiring between the manifold and the fuel pump? i didnt think they were linked by wiring. Again - i could have had it on the wrong setting...unsure.


UPDATE: i took it to a local foreign (honda certified) mechanic shop to have them diagnos the problem. they said they would swap in known good parts, which should determine teh problem. however, when i called the guy to get an update he had bad news. he tried every diagnose i did (with more detail) and came up empty handed. He swapped out my MFR with a known good one and still no start, tested the fuel pump=good, the ignitor and the ignition coil is good. He said there were no check engine codes, but the transmission code said something about the computer. He said his next step was to swap out the computer with a known good one and see if that is the problem.
i had a alarm/remote start/ keyless (autopage 727) installed about 4 months ago and he wanted to say that was the problem. Any thoughts on that - could that have caused my computer to go bad?...cause if thats the case then i'm going after the company that installed it.

Are bad ECu's common? - what causes them to go bad?