I've had this issue since I bought the car a few months back, but since I'm taking a road trip in a few weeks, I thought I'd ask the question. My roommate and I both have a gut feeling that my 94 EX (manual) is misfiring. If I understand correctly, it could be something as simple as spark plugs, but could be something more serious.

It has no kick in the acceleration when shifting between 2nd and 3rd. I can floor it, but it still accelerates very slowly. Also, when I shift to 5th, the rpms drop to about 1500 and slowly creep up.

Is it possible to deduce that the issue lies between certain cylinders? Or should I start off simple by checking all the spark plugs, then moving up to a vacuum check, etc.?

Since the speedo is broken (will be replacing the VSS and checking the solder joints this weekend), it's kind of hard to tell you exact numbers, but I hope by telling you that flooring it helps explain the situation.

 

Presumably the Check Engine LIght is on. Go to DIY forum and use posts there for guidance to check for engine codes and post the codes.

If you don't know the history of the spark plugs and wires, replacement of these would be a good start to rule them out.

good luck

 

No CEL codes. The only time the CEL comes up is when I turn the ignition. Only codes that came up when testing were with the ABS. The ABS trouble codes were 1 3, and 1 4.

I went back to another post I had (https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...ss-94-a-53733/) and just noticed poorman's post on the possibility of clogged EGR ports.

After doing a bit more research on the subject, clogged EGR ports seem to be a big culprit. I have also noticed people saying that it could be the timing, or it could be a dirty TPS sensor.

I think the only thing that's really throwing me off is that I'm not getting CEL codes.

 

No codes suggest other possibilities, but it still wouldn't hurt to install new plugs/wires.

Clogged EGR ports can cause a "flat spot" in acceleration aroudn 2000 rpm and might be more impacting on a manual shift when you don't downshift.

Easy DIY job, but have new fuel injector/rail orings ready as old ones will likely be damaged.

good luck

 

Well, today really told the tale. One of the cylinders isn't working, due to fuel injection (or lack thereof). My friend and I tested the cylinder in question... Plugs and wires were fine, but the fuel injector was kaput. Now we're getting somewhere! I found a rail and injectors on ebay for cheap, so I'll probably just replace the whole thing.

 

Fuel injector harness supplies a constant voltage through a resistor bank on drivers side firewall high. Injector is grounded by ECU to cause injector to open very briefly. Was injector open circuit or you listened for injector pulses and heard nothing?

good luck

 

I just listened for the pulses... Didn't hear anything.

 

Make sure you have power to the injector. You should measure a constant 12V.

If you have 12V, the injector is likely OK since you don't have a CEL code 16 which would indicate injector electrical fault (open or shorted).

What's left is blocked injector, or mechanically failed injector.

good luck

 

Thanks!

 

Well, I replaced all of the spark plugs yesterday and that actually seemed to help a little bit. There's still a flat spot in third and fourth gear, so the fuel injectors and EGR ports will come next.

I was curious and decided to check the gap size of the old spark plugs, and they were at 0.050, instead of the 0.039-0.042 range... They were covered in a decent amount of oil as well.