The plastic plug, yes. Not enough coffee in me at the moment, haha. Sorry about that!

 

Without the spring clip you'll have to be clever about holding it tightly closed for a waterproof seal. Or just get a plug from a junkyard?

 

I was thinking that's probably my best bet. I don't feel too comfortable MacGyvering this job. Luckily the junkyard in my town actually has one 5th gen LX ('96). I'm thinking maybe I'll just get the entire fuel rail, injectors and all.

Silly question.... Would 5th Gen EX injectors/rail/connectors be compatible?

 

Going on memory - yes they are the same - you can go online and check the OE part numbers to be sure.....like you, still getting the required amount of coffee right now

 

Just a quick update. Didn't have time yesterday to do a thorough check, but from the check I did do, there doesn't seem to be any major leakage. There is a small whiff of fuel when I initially start the car now, but goes away after about a minute after it warms up.

I'll be on vacation this weekend and next weekend, so I'll take a more thorough look when I get back. If I end up visiting family next weekend, I'll be taking it to my uncle's garage so I can do a compression test. Since it'll be a "road trip", I can report back to let you know how everything runs!

 

Sorry I haven't been on for awhile, guys. I've had a few medical issues arise and just haven't had the time, energy, or funds to work on the car. I did however run the compression test.

Cylinder 1 was at 139 psi, Cylinders 2 and 3 were at roughly 130 psi, and Cylinder 4 was at 0 (both dry and wet). Spark plugs aren't covered in oil or anything, but I'm burning oil like crazy. Not even 1000 miles after I changed my oil, and it's bone dry.

On a side note, I was able to pull a fuel rail at the junk yard, and will be installing it my next day off.

 

If you did the compression test correctly, then you have a burnt or bent valve, preventing any compression build. Even a burnt valve would probably show some compression, so bent valve stuck open is more likely.

This may have resulted from a slipped timing belt. Major surgery may be req'd to replace timing belt and repair cylinder head.

If there's any question about compression test, I would repeat very carefully to be sure of dead 0 psi reading.

Other cylinder readings of 130-139 psi are at/below the spec minimum of 135 psi. These indicate cylinder ring wear or leaky valves.

A used engine may be your low cost option.

good luck

 

I did the test twice on that cylinder, and it was at 0 both times. He did mention the same possibilities as you, Tex.

The used engine is what I was actually thinking. The junkyard that I go to sells used ones for $200. My roommate has rebuilt engines since the 80's so I'll be okay with that. I'd rather just get a used engine and start from scratch, rather than replace one thing and a month down the line, have another issue pop up.

Since I won't be able to drive for six months, this will be a good time as any to take care of it.

 

Just out of curiosity.... With something as major as this, is it surprising that it's not throwing a CEL code?

 

Have you ruled out a burned-out bulb for the CEL? Does the CEL come on for 2 seconds (bulb-check) when you first turn on the key?