94 Honda EX Issue
Here is a link on how to set the base idle.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...e-speed-38734/
The first mark past zero on your tachometer is 500 rpm (Not 250).
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...e-speed-38734/
The first mark past zero on your tachometer is 500 rpm (Not 250).
Here is a link on how to set the base idle.
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...e-speed-38734/
The first mark past zero on your tachometer is 500 rpm (Not 250).
https://www.hondaaccordforum.com/for...e-speed-38734/
The first mark past zero on your tachometer is 500 rpm (Not 250).
thanks PAhonda, I printed it and will be usuing it shortly so I'll let you guys know what the deal is soon
The trick is that you unplug the wire from the IACV so it's closed. You don't want the IACV to be working against your adjustment.
With it unplugged, your idle will drop almost to stalling the engine. You need ALL electrical loads to be turned off, so if the radiator fan happens to switch on while you're adjusting, then nurse the throttle to keep it from stalling, & wait until the fan isn't running.
Use that screw on the throttle to adjust for 550rpm, which is called the BASE idle. It's too low for a good operating idle, but this is the adjustment point with the IACV unplugged.
If you have vacuum leaks, or air pockets in the cooling system, then it messes up this procedure. So check all the stuff I listed in that base-idle thread.
With it unplugged, your idle will drop almost to stalling the engine. You need ALL electrical loads to be turned off, so if the radiator fan happens to switch on while you're adjusting, then nurse the throttle to keep it from stalling, & wait until the fan isn't running.
Use that screw on the throttle to adjust for 550rpm, which is called the BASE idle. It's too low for a good operating idle, but this is the adjustment point with the IACV unplugged.
If you have vacuum leaks, or air pockets in the cooling system, then it messes up this procedure. So check all the stuff I listed in that base-idle thread.
Thanks Jim, got the IACV back on, did the neccasary things to get it at a base idle, it ran good for a few minutes with no rough idling at all, and then it just shut off with no signs or warnings, it didn't sputter it try to stall so my dad took the distributor cap off, and upon further inspection it just has a new distributor cap, wires and plugs but the distributor itself seems to be failing
It's very easy to replace the distributor, just 3 bolts holding it on to the side of the head. Along with the wiring-harness connector(s). Mark the plug wires so you get them in the proper firing-order.
The shaft inside the distributor has a blade of sorts, that fits into a slot in the end of the camshaft. Pay attention & notice that blade is a bit off-center. It's possible to install that blade 180-degrees out, but you have to force it in. It SHOULD fit nicely, with no need for a hammer. Really, as long as you note the off-center position of that blade you can line it up easily.
Then you need a timing light to set the spark timing. Got a light & familiar with that procedure?
The shaft inside the distributor has a blade of sorts, that fits into a slot in the end of the camshaft. Pay attention & notice that blade is a bit off-center. It's possible to install that blade 180-degrees out, but you have to force it in. It SHOULD fit nicely, with no need for a hammer. Really, as long as you note the off-center position of that blade you can line it up easily.
Then you need a timing light to set the spark timing. Got a light & familiar with that procedure?
Before you go & replace the distributor, check out whether it might be a flaky ignition switch. That's not very rare for Accords... and it fits with sudden shutdown (just as if you'd turned off the key).
Hi Jim, actually changed the distributor she hadn't cut off now and the awful skip that it had with the old distributor is now gone... But and yes there's a but... Now after driving it, it now idles between 1 and the 2nd hash mark towards 2 I'm taking it that's 1500 rpm it's idling high, what did I do now? Lol
After changing the distributor, did you adjust spark timing? After doing that, you should probably go back through the base-idle procedure & re-learn again. You would do that procedure again after changing anything that influences the idle.
That did the trick jim it idles fine now... But with that quick victory I have another set back I'm starting to think this car is possessed by the precious owner but earlier in this post I mentioned whomever had this car before me rigged a switch and a "hot" wire directly from the fuse box to the radiator fan. That fan would turn on instantly when I start the car and stop when I turn the ignition off but I drove if around just a bit and thankfully it's cold here on Atlanta today big I flipped the rigged switch and the fan doesn't come on at all... So I'm back at it again any ideas guys???


