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95 Accord LX 2.2 (Idle drops way too much when cooling fan kicks in)

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Old Apr 11, 2011 | 06:15 PM
  #101  
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You won't be able to pull just those piins easily. It takes as special tool to remove a pin from a connection. It may be easier to cut the wires one at a time and check. First check is to see if ground is there full time before cutting either wire.

If you decide to later reconnect crimp splices will work nicely.

good luck
 
Old Apr 11, 2011 | 08:18 PM
  #102  
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My directions in the PM were wrong.

This link should help for you to remove the pin. Just copy and paste in your browser.

honda-eg6.blogspot.com/2010/11/obd1-ecu-plug-pin-removal.html
 
Old Apr 12, 2011 | 12:39 AM
  #103  
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Ok guys I did the tests. The pins were pretty easy, a lot like removing pins from all my years in RC cars. Anyways heres what I got.

1) A22 TCU pin (red/blu) removed. Problem still happened with it removed.

2)A15 ECU pin(red/blu) removed. Problem still happened, a/c still worked, only thing that I noticed didnt work was the condenser fan even with a/c and blower switch on.

So Im not sure what exactly that tells you other than it now rules out the red/blu wire at the TCU as the culprit. At this point if there is anyway to either replace a wire or run a toggle I am all for it and beyond ready to go that route at this point.

PS; Ive got the TCU and ECU still exposed and ready for more tests if necessary. Didnt want to reinstall everything if there were anymore tests to be done on them.
 

Last edited by Custnam; Apr 12, 2011 at 12:52 AM.
Old Apr 12, 2011 | 01:28 AM
  #104  
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Ok. I tested it. At first without the car on and without the plug jumped. They werent grounded together that way. But with plug jumped and car on they were both grounded together and both had continuity to grd. So does this mean I need to trace down the red/blue to where ever its connected to the green from the fan relay?
When I jump it the cool fan pass side comes on. There is no continuity between the 2 until key in number 2 position

Originally Posted by poorman212
So, once you turn the key on, pos II, there is continuity between the green wire on cond fan relay and the red/blu wire on ac compr relay....but with the key in the same pos, and you jump thermo a, only one fan (right/pass) runs.


Yes. This is exactly what happens
This was what I wanted to ask last night.

So the grn and red/blu wire are connected to each other when you turn the key to II? It doesn't matter if temp sensor A unplugged?

I think that you are left with two options.

1. Clean the grounds. This is sounding more like the possible problem. A/C compressor turning on instead of the a/c fan. Wires crossing only when there is power. Also had rust under the battery where you broke a bolt. likely rusty grounds 201 and 301. Clean the two that are bolted to the bumper G310 and G201). Not too bad of a job. I had some strange headlight problems that cleaning those grounds corrected, and I live in the heavily salted roads up north.

2. Cut into the red/blu wire near the a/c compressor relay. You will run two wires into the cabin. Probably would run them under the driver's fender along that wiring harness, then behind the steering column to where you want to mount it. Turn on a/c, then turn on toggle switch to activate the a/c.
 
Old Apr 12, 2011 | 01:37 AM
  #105  
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Im sorry If this sounds stupid but Id rather ask then do it wrong. So you say run 2 wires. So one of them is tapping into the red/blu at the compressor relay (Leaving the red/blu plugged into the relay?)

and what is the other wire you say to run? And are they just going to ground?

Also I should have mentioned this the first time you mentioned the grounds but I didnt think of it until I read your post about the salt. I can tell just by all the oxidation and discoloring on the engine and how foggy the lights are that the previous owner probably leaved near the ocean here on the west coast. I had to buy a headlight cleaner kit because my lights were so foggy. So Im going to look at the manual and grounds you mentioned and work on those first. Is there anyway other than sandpaper? I think I have a wire brush
 
Old Apr 12, 2011 | 03:04 AM
  #106  
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I used a dremel on mine. If you have a drill and a grinding stone, that will remove any corrosion on the metal bracket.

If you go the route of the toggle switch, you have to cut the red/blu wire, You will have two ends that I would run a wire from each to the switch. The toggle switch should be and open/closed switch just like the temperature switch A.

The reason why I say this is that the ECU could detect that pin A15 has no power and not compensate for the a/c. It is also connected to the TCU. I don't know how the ECU handles that stuff. That info is not in the wiring diagram, but I am guessing either the TCU or ECU needs to detect voltage or ground to adjust the idle and shifting?
 
Old Apr 12, 2011 | 03:21 AM
  #107  
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Hey I just got back from trying to find those ground locations with no luck. I looked from above engine all around the bumper, and from below. I even had a drawing I made of the locations from the manual and i looks like they are both near a hose with a clamp on it. But I didnt see them.

PS: I am going to draw a diagram of what I think you mean about the toggle and Ill post it to make sure I have the right idea before I go that route.
 
Old Apr 12, 2011 | 03:34 AM
  #108  
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OK, hopefully my drawing makes sense. Basically the toggle is going to either cut or create continuity along the red/ blu right?
 
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Old Apr 12, 2011 | 02:26 PM
  #109  
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That is what I was thinking.
 
Old Apr 13, 2011 | 01:22 AM
  #110  
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Ok, I finally got to the grounds. It wasnt easy. I had to pull the bumper off cuz I didnt see any other way to get to them. Anyway I havent cleaned them yet. Im probably going to get sick from working in the cold for so long. But at least I have access to them now. They looked very clean, no rust/ oxidation at all. But Ill still clean them up since I worked so hard to get to them. Ill probably get to that tomorrow in the day. Clean them up real good and go from there.
 



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