Thanks for the tip. Now I'll be able to sound a bit more intelligent =D

Do you have any idea how long a rotor over hub conversion would take? I'm trying to decide if it's worth it to go DIY

 

I personally have not coverted my 95, been thinking but it does have 360K so that is another factor I have to keep in mind. The labor part should be about the same, there are posts about removing the hub bearing/rotor on these models so you might want to look at that to get a better idea of what you are getting into either way you decide to go. Parts cost will be higher, the "savings" idea is next time you change rotors you won't have to pull the hub..saving labor.
Are the bearings bad? How did you come to that? I know it got hot due to the caliper but is it giving you trouble.

 

You can buy the hub/bearing assembly from tasauto.com to do the conversion. That site is down for some reason right now. You will have to get a quote for installation of just a new bearing vs having the new hub/bearing installed to see what the difference is. The amount of time should be about the same for doing the conversion vs replacing the bearing.

I went the cheap route and bought a 98-99 acural 2.2 cl knuckle that had the hub/bearing on it for ~$75 total. All I did was change the lower ball joint and swapped the entire knuckle. It really wasn't a bad DIY job, except the ball joint part. I wrote up some info in the DIY section about the conversion.

 

Well I think it's the wheel bearing because I took it to a mechanic and that's what they told me, but it's certainly possible they're wrong. I don't know if you saw the video I put up or not, but if you watch it and listen closely you can hear some growling when I turn, which from my understanding is/could be a wheel bearing issue.

Thanks for the information on the hub installation. I think right now since I'm quite inexperienced and short on time before I start school I will just take it to a mechanic. If something like this comes up again in the future though I may try to go DIY, depending on how the mechanic does. I'll keep all of you posted as to what happens

 

Alright, so what I ended up doing was getting the wheel bearings replaced by a mechanic. That got rid of most of the noise, but they said I also needed to replace the passenger side cv joint, which I'm planning on doing myself.

In the meantime, I got a driver side caliper off rockauto.com, from the section specifically for the year and model of my honda. The one I got was the Autospecialty/Kelsey Hayes 4054050. I installed it without too much trouble, but when I tried to put the wheel back on, I couldn't get it to fit! As far as I can tell, the caliper isn't much more than a .25" bigger at most points than the old one. I assumed that since it was being sold as a part for the exact car I had, it would fit...Am I wrong to assume that? Also, has anyone tried returning anything to rockauto that they already installed?