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'95 Transmission Troubles

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Old Dec 19, 2011 | 08:52 PM
  #11  
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Originally Posted by JSDurbin
I just checked the tranny fluid and I dont see much (really nothing) on the cross hatched section. I checked multiple times and it came out the same everytime. I did see some black fluid on the bottom tip of the stick. I know this isn't good at all. I'll get fluids in it next morning.
Did you change the trans fluid yet? That would be something to do before you start ohming-out solenoids. Many say Honda trans fluid only but some, including me, have had good results with Valvoline MaxLife.
 
Old Dec 19, 2011 | 09:25 PM
  #12  
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Originally Posted by Roader
Did you change the trans fluid yet? That would be something to do before you start ohming-out solenoids. Many say Honda trans fluid only but some, including me, have had good results with Valvoline MaxLife.
Today was busier than I expected so I didn't get the transmission fluid changed. That'll be done tomorrow.

Would low fluid really make the transmission throw codes?
 
Old Dec 19, 2011 | 09:27 PM
  #13  
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Originally Posted by poorman212
Suggest looking in the Common DIY Threads at the top and getting a manual, not only for the location but the testing as well.
Thanks!

My haynes didn't lead me far, that's why I asked about the location and testing here. I guess I should have checked the DIY sections, eh?
 
Old Jan 2, 2012 | 12:04 PM
  #14  
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Update:

I was out of town for the past few weeks but I did have the solenoids checked and they were functioning properly. I'm now going to remove the ECU and inspect it. Anything I should know? I'm about to go check the manuals for info.

Thanks

Edit: it's the ECU, not the TCU. Ha
 

Last edited by JSDurbin; Jan 2, 2012 at 04:00 PM.
Old Jan 2, 2012 | 12:31 PM
  #15  
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And the fluid level is ?

Did you clean/test the main and counter shaft sensors ?
 
Old Jan 2, 2012 | 12:31 PM
  #16  
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Code 14 is fault in ECM or ECM to TCM wiring. Nothing to do w/ solenoids.

Are you sure about code. You should have one long flash, short pause (< 1 sec), and 4 short flashes. If pause is long (3-5 secs), then you have two codes 10 and 4.

If ATF is dirty, start w/ a drain/refill.

good luck
 
Old Jan 2, 2012 | 01:34 PM
  #17  
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Yes, that is what the book says....I have seen more than one person cure a code 14 by cleaning the main and counter shaft sensors.....maybe they all miss counted the 13 to 14, so IMHO worth the effort to pull, wipe off and re-install the two and see what happens......if it does not work, then spend the ~$50 on a used ECU and go from there.
 
Old Jan 2, 2012 | 04:05 PM
  #18  
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I have very few tools with me (all in storage miles away) and it was 20 degrees in the middle of the day in Detroit(no garage), I also had plans to leave the state, so I just took my car to a well recommended non-honda shop and explained as best as I could everything I knew. I stressed checking the solenoids for proper function. I didn't see him physically do the work, but his diagnosis was a faulty ECU. He came to that conclusion after checking the wiring between the ECU and TCU which...

Hey, I have his semi-report right here. I'll take a picture so his methodology can be checked out (and for posterity). I was also given his wiring diagrams that he used as a reference.

imgur: the simple image sharer


He wanted to much for a used ECU and since I knew i could grab one for $50 and it's a easy swap I just picked up from his shop and took it home. The fluids are low and I'll see to that now that I have the time. Could that be my only problem? I understand it should have been my first priority.

Next step Fluids, but I have the ECU pretty much taken out. Should I check it now? Will leaky capacitors be the sign?
 
Old Jan 2, 2012 | 08:00 PM
  #19  
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TexasHonda had a bad ECU on a similar vintage accord. When he inspected the board, it looked ok, but replacing the ECU fixed his problem. I am guessing that you will discover the same thing.

I would look at car-part.com for used ECUs that match your car to see what local junkyards will charge. Just make sure that the ECU you get is for a 94/95 accord with an automatic transmission from a LX or DX. An EX ECU will not work on your car.
 
Old Jan 4, 2012 | 05:30 PM
  #20  
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Ok, I just got my hands on a used ECU locally ($45). Is the swap as easy as I think it is? I can't find anything on the procedure and I'm apprehensive to jump right in.
 



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