1996 Honda Accord 2.2L non-vtec

I'm getting CEL code 12 and am trying to narrow down the issue. In my Haynes manual it says:

I've checked for voltage with the ignition in the ON position as well as while the car is idling after the radiator fan has turned on and it always reads 0.0 volts. I've also checked all the fuses and they appear intact. Any idea why I wouldn't be getting any voltage to this wire harness?

 

Sounds like you're referring to the Blk/Yel wire on the 2P connector to the EGR control solenoid valve.

Are you touching the voltmeter's black lead to body ground or the negative battery post, when you touch the voltmeter's red lead to the Blk/Yel wire terminal?

If the Blk/Yel wire does not have voltage with the ignition switch in position II (ON) or III (START) and under-dash Fuse No. 4 is good, then there probably is an open (break) in the wire.

Your '96 is OBD-II, the port is behind the ash tray. In states other than California, many auto parts shops like Autozone, O'reilly, etc. will read the OBD-II codes for free. OBD-II codes can be more specific.

 

I used the ground terminal of the battery this time and found there to be about 24 volts. I also checked the volts of the EGR valve lift sensor with the ignition in the ON position and found there to be a steady 10.1 volts. My Haynes manual calls for 5 volts on the valve lift sensor though, any idea what that might mean?

I plan on buying one of the bluetooth OBD2 readers as well.

 

It can mean:

• your meter's readings are woefully off
• alternator is overcharging if you are getting a reading of 24 volts
• wiring short or incorrectly wired together somewhere (but, fuse did not blow or wires burned yet)

Just go get the OBD-II code(s) read for free if you don't have a reader yet.

 

turns out I had the meter on AC instead of DC, which doubles the voltage readout.

 

Try to get the OBD-II code(s), then post them and we'll see if we can go from there to narrow down the issue.

 

ok I did a scan on OBD2 and found one error code

I'm guessing I should change out the EGR valve and possibly clean the 4 ports on the exhaust header part.

 

Cleaning out the ports is a good idea. They tend to clog up on this vintage accord.

I would not change the valve before you do some testing.

The EGR valve is opened/closed via vacuum. The sensor on the valve only detects how much the valve is opened. I'd start by carefully inspecting the vacuum hose going from the valve to the control box. This could be simply a bad vacuum hose.